#harvest

L’Olio Novo

The Tuscan Green Gold, from the farm to the fork!

Autumn isn’t just about roasting chestnuts and sipping red wine by the fireplace. There’s hardly any time to relax when you’re living in the Tuscan countryside. Therefore, between the golden autumn leaves and the first winter chill, as soon as we’re done with the vine harvest, we have to get our strength back and be ready for a new adventure: the olive harvest.

Like every other year, we start picking olives on our farm around mid-October, just before the first chills of November. Back in the day, they used to wait for the olives to be fully mature before harvesting. But the weather wasn’t always kind to crops in late autumn, so to protect them from the early frosts, people have traditionally developed the custom we all know today: harvesting olives earlier, even before they are fully ripe.

This tradition has become an essential part of our territory’s reputation worldwide, for it has given us a unique product of excellence: “l’olio novo” toscano (the freshly pressed Tuscan extravirgin olive oil). Unique because the chemical and organoleptic characteristics of the PDO extravirgin olive oil are mostly related to the climate of the growth area, which directly influences the quality of the phenols, the bitterness, and the sharpness of the taste.

The Harvest

Harvesting olives before they’re fully ripe means they still have a high level of polyphenols. Unfortunately, this means we get less product, but it’s exactly what we need to achieve that perfect balance of intense bitterness and peppery flavor, which is so characteristic of Tuscan extra virgin olive oil. However, the final taste of each batch also depends on many other factors, so it’s almost impossible to have two different productions with the same taste, even in the same area.

As we always do on our farm, harvesting olives is a group activity. Farming is a physically demanding job, and any extra help is always appreciated. Traditionally, during the olive harvest, close relatives, friends, or neighbors from nearby farms come together to lend a hand and spend some fun days outdoors, enjoying the stunning views of the Tuscan hills. Everyone participates in the process, and seeing the product go from the olive grove to the table is really exciting for everyone.

The day begins very early in the morning, with rubber boots, comfortable clothes, and tools of the trade, we head to our small olive grove and start picking up the little green-purple gems. What we love most is that our family still keeps the tradition alive from past generations, and a day of hard work on the farm can easily turn into a celebration. We love to bring back the old-fashioned charm of country living, just like our grandparents used to: understanding the importance of this moment, giving thanks for nature’s abundance, and sharing the sweat, laughter, food, and wine until the work is done! My grandfathers used to tell me about their harvest gatherings, describing those moments as the most important in a farmer’s life, for socializing and opening up with others about everyday life, by sharing the labor and the table.

Finally, the new oil

Our day of harvesting olives ends only after the sun sets, always following nature’s rhythm. Depending on how big the olive grove is, it might take anywhere from a day to a whole week to finish. So, we store the harvested pods in plastic boxes or on the cool, well-ventilated floor until we can take them to the mill for pressing, but usually not longer than 48 hours.

There are many mills around here. We take our harvest to a very old mill nearby that uses the traditional “cold pressing” method to get the best extra virgin olive oil. First, we wash the olives in cold water to remove as many leaves as possible. Then, we crush them together with a giant millstone and store them in stainless steel tins.

This is what we actually call “l’olio novo” (the new oil) here in Tuscany! It’s the freshly squeezed, unstrained, and unprocessed extra virgin olive oil that we all love. It’s the main ingredient in all our traditional dishes and is recommended worldwide for its well-known health benefits. We use it in our kitchens every day: drizzled fresh over a salad, cooked in most dishes, sometimes as a healthy substitute for butter in cakes, and even in the pan for a healthier fry. However, when it comes to the fruity; peppery; pungent freshly squeezed olive oil, the first thing that comes to mind is “la fettunta” (the greasy slice). This is Tuscany’s traditional, healthiest, and simplest dish ever, and the best way to enjoy the amazing flavor of “the new oil.”

As soon as we bring the “green gold” back home, we just can’t help but drizzle it on a piece of Tuscan toasted white bread (unsalted). Just like that, nothing else added, no other confusing ingredients, just our own special extra virgin olive oil… and this is when we realize that all the sweat and hard work was all worth it!

Truffles – When, What, How?

Everything you need to know about these earthy fragranced and pungent tasting gems!

October is a wonderful time to enjoy the bounty of olives and chestnuts, perfect for cozy comfort food, warm socks, and a hot drink by the fireplace.

But, of course, the best part is the chance to hunt for truffles, especially the prized white truffle! If you’re not into cozy socks and hot drinks, truffle hunting can be quite a challenge!

WHEN IS THE BEST TIME TO TRUFFLE HUNT?

There’s no set “truffle season,” just a matter of following nature’s rhythms and knowing where to look and what to search for throughout the year. If you’re interested, keep reading as we’ll share everything you need to know about truffles!

As we mentioned, following nature’s course is a great starting point when you’re looking for truffles. First, you need to know what you’re searching for! Truffles are related to common mushrooms, actually a type of underground fungus called an Ascomycete, and specifically one of the Tuber species. They grow in partnerships with some trees’ roots, spreading their spores mainly through animals that enjoy truffles, mushrooms, and other fungi. Truffles grow independently, and you’ll rarely find more than one in a single hole, but you might find others near the same tree. Another interesting fact is that truffles actually start growing about five months before you find them, so if you discover one in winter, it likely formed during the summer. However, truffles ripen at different times, and their scent only lasts for about eight hours, and they only “live” for 10-15 days before decomposing into organic matter for small animals and the soil.

WHAT SHOULD YOU BE LOOKING FOR?

There are mainly two types of truffles, divided into other categories: the black truffle and the white truffle. Here in Tuscany, we have the black ‘summer’ truffle (Tuber aestivum) or ‘scorzone,’ which has a hard skin and dark aromatic flesh; you can find this one just under the surface of the ground. We harvest the black summer truffle from the beginning of June until late autumn, and it has a very appreciated culinary value, along with the burgundy black truffle (Tuber uncinatum), which is part of the same species but is called this way for its crocheted-like skin. Starting from late September, there is a transition period, in which it’s likely we find the last of black truffles, as well as the first ripe white ones. This marks the beginning of the eagerly awaited white truffle period, which lasts until mid-January more or less.

The white truffle (Tuber Magnatum) can be found under the roots of oaks, hazels, poplar, or beeches and has a pale light brown flesh with white marbling. It grows deeper into the ground than the black one (up to 160 ft. underground), which makes it more difficult to find. Since it forms during summer, when there is less (to none) humidity in the soil, white truffle originates deeper underground, taking advantage of the more humid part of it. A less known and used type is a kind of ‘wild’ truffle called Tuber Macrosporum, which has a strong garlic taste and is hardly ever used in the kitchen.

white-truffle-hand

For Luigi’s dogs, truffle hunting is more of a fun adventure than a job, as some might imagine. They love sniffing around the woods, hoping to find those delicious truffles, because they know there’s a tasty reward waiting for them if they do, and they’re also quite greedy for those earthy treats! Who wouldn’t be?

But what really matters is the bond between the dog and his owner. You can’t just buy or rent a trained dog and expect him to do all the work for you! You need to know, feel, and love your dog to understand his behavior and read his body language. Otherwise, you might end up with your truffles eaten by the dog before you know it, or even worse: no truffles at all!

One last thing to keep in mind is that, besides the dog, you’ll need a state license. Hunters get a special permit (which lets them search for truffles and mushrooms in any forest across Italy) by taking a special course. They learn about hunting, including the laws, how to guide, knowing the woods, and protecting the forest floor and undergrowth.

Now, we might have made that last part sound a bit daunting, but don’t worry! If you’re interested in hunting but don’t have the time to take a class and train your own dog while you’re on vacation in Italy, you can still join Luigi for a fun hunting trip in the Tuscan woods around Certaldo. You can even enjoy the bounty over a delicious four-course lunch at Cucina Giuseppina, where it’s all about great Chianti wine and homemade Tuscan treats.

truffle-dishes-tuscan-cooking

V – for Vineyards

“While Nature Awakens” – behind the scenes

Every January is a fresh start here at Giuseppina’s Cooking School; as nature stirs, we get ready for a new year brimming with fantastic recipes, delicious homemade preserves, and exquisite Chianti wine straight from our vineyards.

The air is buzzing with excitement here, and as Giuseppina gets ready to welcome and delight her guests this season with new kitchen tricks and tips on her Tuscan recipes, we’re about to start preparing our vineyards for a fantastic harvest year of fresh, wonderful wine that will perfectly complement our local dishes.

Harvest is just the final act of a long year

Since nature can’t wait, the perfect moment has arrived for us to tend to our vines, ensuring they give us their best rewards. It’s a moment of deep devotion, focusing on the vine’s new vegetative growth, just as we would with one of our homemade pasta dishes or bread. We begin by “kneading” the soil just enough to allow it to breathe after a long, cold winter. Then, we add the “spices” (winter fertilizer) that will help the vine’s heart grow its best harvest, giving the wine that perfect blend of flavors that makes Chianti wine famous and loved worldwide. Now, we’re almost done, and we start trimming the vine, restoring its shape. It’s probably the most important part of the work because a clean-shaped vine means a richer harvest. As an old saying goes, once a vine told its owner:

fammi povera e ti farò ricco

(Keep me poor -of unwanted trims- and I will make you rich -of the best grapes-).

The vine is a symbol of abundance, representing love for the land in the form of grapes. To create the best wine, it requires a deep passion and unwavering perseverance, fully utilizing the incredible qualities that Chianti’s land offers.

The wine harvest and tasting are the culmination of a year of dedicated effort and care, which we’re excited to share with our guests. We aim to take them beyond the typical tourist spots, beyond just a simple wine tasting or a casual visit to the vineyards, offering them a genuine experience of growing Chianti vines and becoming part of the story.

We’re here to provide them with the authentic experience of Chianti vine cultivation, making them an integral part of the journey.

modif.1