As I’m cozying up by the fireplace, sipping my coffee, and watching delicate snowflakes twirl in the air, I can’t help but drift back to my childhood in the countryside, surrounded by my family.
A COMMUNITY EVENT AND A FAMILY FEAST
Late winter was usually a time of rest, a pause in nature’s cycle when there wasn’t much to do in the fields. The sun often hid behind thick clouds, and the animals on the farm preferred to stay warm inside their stables.
It seems our Tuscan ancestors decided that this was the perfect time for domestic slaughtering. The cold weather was ideal for preserving the huge amounts of meat that needed to be handled during the butchering. Back then, there weren’t any big storage cellars like we have today.
In the countryside, money wasn’t the main focus. Farmers worked hard every day to make ends meet. Everything was considered a valuable resource, and the community spirit was strong. Neighbors were often the only people farmers could rely on, besides their families. Their help and hard work were always appreciated with food, wine, and a helping hand when needed.
Pig slaughtering was a big deal for the community and a family feast, so everyone pitched in. After a long day of hard work, they looked forward to an evening of delicious pork treats and good wine. Back then, it was the only time of year when people could afford to indulge in such a large amount of meat.
Pork meat has always been a valuable part of our culinary tradition because nothing was ever wasted. Even the smallest, seemingly insignificant pieces were used. Once the butcher processed it, it became a year’s supply for the farming families and a valuable trade item for other goods or services.
Following nature’s lead, our farmers had a specific way of using the products from their animals. Everything was based on the seasons, so the first things eaten were those that needed less time to prepare and age, like jowl and pork belly.
Prosciutto crudo Toscano
In Tuscany, we have a fantastic selection of cured meats and pork products, but when we think of pork, the first thing that comes to mind is the PDO Tuscan Raw Ham (Prosciutto Crudo Toscano DOP). This dry-cured, aged raw ham, probably the best in the world, is the star of the Tuscan area, along with the Tuscan Pecorino Cheese and the Chianti Wine. It’s so special that in the past, it was the last pork product to be eaten, often up to a year later. It was the finest delicacy that farmers had, and they were often proud of it. I remember that “opening” the Prosciutto was a joyful occasion, a feast where friends and family gathered to share this delicacy, but only because the first part of the hind leg had a bit too much fat around, before revealing the finest savory, chewy bites of pure raw ham; however, that doesn’t mean it was less delicious.
The Tuscan Raw Ham comes from the oldest traditions and should not be confused with the similar Raw Ham of Parma and San Daniele. The process might seem similar, but the unique flavor and the characteristic chewy, almost buttery, and salty taste of the Tuscan PDO Raw Ham are unmistakable. This is because it’s directly related to the local aromatics, customs, and the geographical area’s temperatures and humidity.
The Tuscan Raw Ham gets its typical salty taste from… well, salt, of course. But it’s not just about how much salt you use; it’s about the aging time and the specific environment with the right level of humidity where the meat is held and cured. It’s a long-standing tradition that dates back to Medieval times, when farmers used to cure the hind legs with fennel seeds that grew wild along the Tuscan fields, along with sea salt to preserve the meat. More recently, juniper, garlic, and pepper have been added to the recipe, but it still depends on each family’s tradition and customs that have been passed down through generations.
As I recall, my father used to rub pork hind legs with a garlic and pepper pomade and let them sit on a wooden table for up to 20 days. Then, he’d wash the pomade away with vinegar and, after drying it thoroughly, rub the rind-less part again with lots of salt and pepper to keep flies from eating the meat.
In our family, we didn’t waste anything, so when the ham was gone, we used the bones to flavor simpler peasant dishes like Tuscan bread soup or bean soup. But before that, my mother always saved some marrow in a small jar in the fridge. She called it her secret medicine for when my brothers and I came home with bumps and bruises—a little scrub on the spot, and the pain would disappear. Now you might find that funny, but back then, it was a miracle medicine!
And speaking of childhood memories, the best “merenda” (snack) we ever had as kids, and that we’re still obsessed with today, was the famous “panino col pane sciabo e prosciutto” (the Tuscan unsalted white bread and raw ham sandwich). Yes, because nothing is random: the typical Tuscan unsalted white bread pairs perfectly with the salty Tuscan Raw Ham, bringing out the best in this fine cured meat. Picture eating a salted piece of bread with an even saltier piece of raw ham, or aged Pecorino cheese… it’s all been figured out since ages, no wonder our culinary matches are known worldwide!
