#traditions

Aglio, Olio & Peperoncino, the Trinity of Midnight Spaghetti.

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When I think of pasta, spaghetti is the first thing that comes to mind. And when I think of spaghetti, tomato sauce is the first thing that comes to mind. But then, I think of Aglio Olio e Peperoncino. It’s a versatile recipe that can be made for any occasion. It’s the pasta that feeds everyone and makes everyone happy. And most importantly, it’s the pasta that you can make when your pantry is empty.

If you ask any Italian about this pasta, they’ll likely recall memories of an unexpected visit and an improvised meal. They might remember a late-night “spaghettata” after a hangout with friends or the everyday pasta that they make when they don’t have time or don’t want to cook anything too sophisticated.

When your pantry is empty and your fridge is lonely, you still have a bottle of olive oil, a clove of garlic that you’ve forgotten somewhere, some dried chili pepper or powder, and of course, spaghetti!

Like any simple recipe, the quality of the ingredients and the quality of execution are essential. Here, we’re talking about extra virgin olive oil and pasta al dente.

Ingredients for 4 people:

  • 6 tablespoons olive oil
  • 2 cloves of garlic
  • 1 chili pepper
  • 400g spaghetti

Method(watch the video):

  1. In a pan, warm up the oil along with the crushed cloves of garlic and the chili pepper to taste. Just before the garlic turns brown, turn off the heat to avoid a bitter taste.
  2. In a large pot of boiling water, add a handful of salt and cook the spaghetti. Strain the pasta one minute before the time indicated on the package. Then, add the pasta to the pan with the hot olive oil and sauté for a minute. Add a cup of the pasta water as the sauce reduces slightly.
  3. There are various versions and opinions on the final garnish. Remember, this is a pasta made with what you have at home, so feel free to add fresh parsley or Parmesan cheese on top, to your taste.

An honorable mention goes to the spicy mix made in Tuscany by a friend. Simply add two teaspoons of this dry mix to the oil, and the job is done. We tried it last weekend, and it was very surprising and hot!

Buon Appetito!

sportellina-tuscan-traditional-easter-cake

La Sportellina – a Tuscan traditional Easter cake

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In Tuscany, we have a unique sweet tradition called “la Sportellina” or “schiacciata di Pasqua” (literally, the Easter squashed bread). It may sound funny for a cake that doesn’t look squashed at all, but the name actually comes from the large number of eggs that need to be cracked (squashed) into the batter.

The countryside Easter traditions

During the old days, Lent was a time of fasting and repentance, so people relied on homemade products. This was a common and deeply religious tradition, especially in the countryside. Most peasant families’ meals consisted of soups, polenta, vegetables from their own farm, or homemade bread and freshly picked herbs. Occasionally, adding a pilchard in oil was a special treat that not everyone could afford. So, it’s no wonder that on Easter, people indulged in abundant dishes and plenty of meat, generously accompanied by a glass or two of good wine!

Food preparations typically began during Holy Week before Easter. Everything had to be produced in large quantities to be shared with families and neighbors as a symbol of gratitude and celebration.

As a child, I remember a lively atmosphere in our town. People would go up and down the alleys from early morning until sunset. I could sense Easter approaching just by catching a whiff of the air. Suddenly, I was enveloped in the delightful aroma of aniseed and freshly baked cake, coming from the town’s wood-fired oven. Back then, household appliances were rare, and not everyone could afford an oven. So, during the Easter rush, when women prepared numerous oven-baked goods, they would rush up and down the main street with their kneaded doughs, waiting for their turn to use the town’s oven. Imagine the oven working tirelessly day and night, baking hundreds of pans of traditional delicacies, which they would then take back home. The smell that filled the air back then was simply amazing!

tuscan-traditional-easter-cake

The origins of Sportellina cake

The connection between ancient traditions and nature is always interesting, as nothing is random. At the beginning of spring, hens laid more eggs than usual, which had to be consumed quickly due to the lack of modern storage methods. Therefore, this Easter cake, like many other seasonal cakes and dishes, was a good way to use up a significant number of eggs.

As I mentioned, our mother and grandmothers prepared this traditional cake in large quantities during Holy Week. The recipe required considerable effort and patience, given the lengthy rising and baking times. Imagine kneading and allowing the dough to rise repeatedly for at least five times before baking! This meticulous process was another reason for making the cake in large quantities. Some pieces were wrapped and given to family guests and neighbors, others were offered to the church for serving after Holy Mass on Easter Day, and a few were left for breakfast the following day.

In our fast-paced modern world, it’s challenging to imagine the time and effort required for such a lengthy and delicate preparation. Fortunately, you can easily find it at the supermarket. However, there’s something special about the experience of dipping your hands into the dough and kneading it. It’s a moment of peace and reflection, allowing your thoughts to flow freely. The sweet aroma of aniseed and mint liqueur fills your nostrils, transporting you back to your childhood. Regardless of the time it takes, the reward is immense when you see that precious piece of dough rise and turn golden brown, a testament to your dedication to preserving the tradition.

 

The Sportellina Recipe:

  • 1.5 kg 00 flour
  • 50 g brewer’s yeast
  • 150 ml milk
  • 7 eggs (plus 1 for brushing the surface)
  • 450 g sugar
  • 110 g extra virgin olive oil
  • 50 grams of butter
  • 50 grams of mint liqueur
  • 50 grams of maraschino
  • 15 grams of aniseed
  • 1 orange (zest and juice)

 

Method:

  1. First, dissolve the brewer’s yeast in the warm milk. Gradually add about 300-400 grams of flour and mix until well incorporated. Knead the dough into a ball and let it rest in a bowl for about 2 hours.
  2. After two hours, mix in 3 eggs, 150 grams of sugar, 40 grams of olive oil, and another 400 grams of flour. Let it rest again in a warm place until it doubles in volume (this time, it will take about three hours).
  3. For the third step, add in 2 eggs, 150 grams of sugar, 40 grams of olive oil, 25 grams of mint liqueur, 25 grams of maraschino, and another 400 grams of flour. Knead the dough again until all ingredients are well combined and let it rest for another 3 hours.
  4. Finally, mix in the remaining ingredients and knead the dough for a while. Then, let it rest for another 3 hours. Divide the batter into three equal parts and place them in the baking molds (we use the same molds as for Panettone). Cover the molds with a warm cloth and let them rise for 4-5 hours, or until they double in volume.
  5. Brush the top of the cakes with beaten egg and bake them in a preheated oven at 180°C for about 50 minutes, or until the surface turns brown. Let them cool in the oven for 10 more minutes before removing them.

 

(Note) You can store the cakes in a plastic bag in a cool, dry place for up to one week. This way, you can bake more pieces and offer them as an Easter gift to family and friends, or enjoy them as a delicious breakfast for a whole week! Enjoy!

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tuscan raw ham hanging

Tuscan Ham & Childhood Memories

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As I’m cozying up by the fireplace, sipping my coffee, and watching delicate snowflakes twirl in the air, I can’t help but drift back to my childhood in the countryside, surrounded by my family.

A COMMUNITY EVENT AND A FAMILY FEAST

Late winter was usually a time of rest, a pause in nature’s cycle when there wasn’t much to do in the fields. The sun often hid behind thick clouds, and the animals on the farm preferred to stay warm inside their stables.

It seems our Tuscan ancestors decided that this was the perfect time for domestic slaughtering. The cold weather was ideal for preserving the huge amounts of meat that needed to be handled during the butchering. Back then, there weren’t any big storage cellars like we have today.

In the countryside, money wasn’t the main focus. Farmers worked hard every day to make ends meet. Everything was considered a valuable resource, and the community spirit was strong. Neighbors were often the only people farmers could rely on, besides their families. Their help and hard work were always appreciated with food, wine, and a helping hand when needed.

Pig slaughtering was a big deal for the community and a family feast, so everyone pitched in. After a long day of hard work, they looked forward to an evening of delicious pork treats and good wine. Back then, it was the only time of year when people could afford to indulge in such a large amount of meat.

Pork meat has always been a valuable part of our culinary tradition because nothing was ever wasted. Even the smallest, seemingly insignificant pieces were used. Once the butcher processed it, it became a year’s supply for the farming families and a valuable trade item for other goods or services.

Following nature’s lead, our farmers had a specific way of using the products from their animals. Everything was based on the seasons, so the first things eaten were those that needed less time to prepare and age, like jowl and pork belly.

Prosciutto crudo Toscano

In Tuscany, we have a fantastic selection of cured meats and pork products, but when we think of pork, the first thing that comes to mind is the PDO Tuscan Raw Ham (Prosciutto Crudo Toscano DOP). This dry-cured, aged raw ham, probably the best in the world, is the star of the Tuscan area, along with the Tuscan Pecorino Cheese and the Chianti Wine. It’s so special that in the past, it was the last pork product to be eaten, often up to a year later. It was the finest delicacy that farmers had, and they were often proud of it. I remember that “opening” the Prosciutto was a joyful occasion, a feast where friends and family gathered to share this delicacy, but only because the first part of the hind leg had a bit too much fat around, before revealing the finest savory, chewy bites of pure raw ham; however, that doesn’t mean it was less delicious.

The Tuscan Raw Ham comes from the oldest traditions and should not be confused with the similar Raw Ham of Parma and San Daniele. The process might seem similar, but the unique flavor and the characteristic chewy, almost buttery, and salty taste of the Tuscan PDO Raw Ham are unmistakable. This is because it’s directly related to the local aromatics, customs, and the geographical area’s temperatures and humidity.

The Tuscan Raw Ham gets its typical salty taste from… well, salt, of course. But it’s not just about how much salt you use; it’s about the aging time and the specific environment with the right level of humidity where the meat is held and cured. It’s a long-standing tradition that dates back to Medieval times, when farmers used to cure the hind legs with fennel seeds that grew wild along the Tuscan fields, along with sea salt to preserve the meat. More recently, juniper, garlic, and pepper have been added to the recipe, but it still depends on each family’s tradition and customs that have been passed down through generations.

As I recall, my father used to rub pork hind legs with a garlic and pepper pomade and let them sit on a wooden table for up to 20 days. Then, he’d wash the pomade away with vinegar and, after drying it thoroughly, rub the rind-less part again with lots of salt and pepper to keep flies from eating the meat.

In our family, we didn’t waste anything, so when the ham was gone, we used the bones to flavor simpler peasant dishes like Tuscan bread soup or bean soup. But before that, my mother always saved some marrow in a small jar in the fridge. She called it her secret medicine for when my brothers and I came home with bumps and bruises—a little scrub on the spot, and the pain would disappear. Now you might find that funny, but back then, it was a miracle medicine!

And speaking of childhood memories, the best “merenda” (snack) we ever had as kids, and that we’re still obsessed with today, was the famous “panino col pane sciabo e prosciutto” (the Tuscan unsalted white bread and raw ham sandwich). Yes, because nothing is random: the typical Tuscan unsalted white bread pairs perfectly with the salty Tuscan Raw Ham, bringing out the best in this fine cured meat. Picture eating a salted piece of bread with an even saltier piece of raw ham, or aged Pecorino cheese… it’s all been figured out since ages, no wonder our culinary matches are known worldwide!

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L’Olio Novo

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The Tuscan Green Gold, from the farm to the fork!

Autumn isn’t just about roasting chestnuts and sipping red wine by the fireplace. There’s hardly any time to relax when you’re living in the Tuscan countryside. Therefore, between the golden autumn leaves and the first winter chill, as soon as we’re done with the vine harvest, we have to get our strength back and be ready for a new adventure: the olive harvest.

Like every other year, we start picking olives on our farm around mid-October, just before the first chills of November. Back in the day, they used to wait for the olives to be fully mature before harvesting. But the weather wasn’t always kind to crops in late autumn, so to protect them from the early frosts, people have traditionally developed the custom we all know today: harvesting olives earlier, even before they are fully ripe.

This tradition has become an essential part of our territory’s reputation worldwide, for it has given us a unique product of excellence: “l’olio novo” toscano (the freshly pressed Tuscan extravirgin olive oil). Unique because the chemical and organoleptic characteristics of the PDO extravirgin olive oil are mostly related to the climate of the growth area, which directly influences the quality of the phenols, the bitterness, and the sharpness of the taste.

The Harvest

Harvesting olives before they’re fully ripe means they still have a high level of polyphenols. Unfortunately, this means we get less product, but it’s exactly what we need to achieve that perfect balance of intense bitterness and peppery flavor, which is so characteristic of Tuscan extra virgin olive oil. However, the final taste of each batch also depends on many other factors, so it’s almost impossible to have two different productions with the same taste, even in the same area.

As we always do on our farm, harvesting olives is a group activity. Farming is a physically demanding job, and any extra help is always appreciated. Traditionally, during the olive harvest, close relatives, friends, or neighbors from nearby farms come together to lend a hand and spend some fun days outdoors, enjoying the stunning views of the Tuscan hills. Everyone participates in the process, and seeing the product go from the olive grove to the table is really exciting for everyone.

The day begins very early in the morning, with rubber boots, comfortable clothes, and tools of the trade, we head to our small olive grove and start picking up the little green-purple gems. What we love most is that our family still keeps the tradition alive from past generations, and a day of hard work on the farm can easily turn into a celebration. We love to bring back the old-fashioned charm of country living, just like our grandparents used to: understanding the importance of this moment, giving thanks for nature’s abundance, and sharing the sweat, laughter, food, and wine until the work is done! My grandfathers used to tell me about their harvest gatherings, describing those moments as the most important in a farmer’s life, for socializing and opening up with others about everyday life, by sharing the labor and the table.

Finally, the new oil

Our day of harvesting olives ends only after the sun sets, always following nature’s rhythm. Depending on how big the olive grove is, it might take anywhere from a day to a whole week to finish. So, we store the harvested pods in plastic boxes or on the cool, well-ventilated floor until we can take them to the mill for pressing, but usually not longer than 48 hours.

There are many mills around here. We take our harvest to a very old mill nearby that uses the traditional “cold pressing” method to get the best extra virgin olive oil. First, we wash the olives in cold water to remove as many leaves as possible. Then, we crush them together with a giant millstone and store them in stainless steel tins.

This is what we actually call “l’olio novo” (the new oil) here in Tuscany! It’s the freshly squeezed, unstrained, and unprocessed extra virgin olive oil that we all love. It’s the main ingredient in all our traditional dishes and is recommended worldwide for its well-known health benefits. We use it in our kitchens every day: drizzled fresh over a salad, cooked in most dishes, sometimes as a healthy substitute for butter in cakes, and even in the pan for a healthier fry. However, when it comes to the fruity; peppery; pungent freshly squeezed olive oil, the first thing that comes to mind is “la fettunta” (the greasy slice). This is Tuscany’s traditional, healthiest, and simplest dish ever, and the best way to enjoy the amazing flavor of “the new oil.”

As soon as we bring the “green gold” back home, we just can’t help but drizzle it on a piece of Tuscan toasted white bread (unsalted). Just like that, nothing else added, no other confusing ingredients, just our own special extra virgin olive oil… and this is when we realize that all the sweat and hard work was all worth it!

red-onion-certaldo

La Cipolla di Certaldo: the Sweet Red Onion of Certaldo

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Back in the XIV century, Boccaccio, in one of his most famous stories from The Decameron (VI, 10), wrote about Certaldo.

This little story shows that Certaldo’s red onion has been known for ages, even before the middle ages! It’s a slow food product and a true treasure of our land, available in two types: Stantina, a round, purplish onion with juicy flesh that’s best enjoyed in the summer, and Vernina, a bright red and tangy onion that’s picked from late August through the winter and is a symbol of Certaldo.

“Certaldo, as you may have heard, is a castle of Val d’ Elsa situated in our county, which, however small it may be, was once inhabited by noblemenand men of substance; and thither, for that he found good pasture there, one of the friars of the order of St. Anthony was long used to resort once a year, to get in the alms bestowed by simpletons upon him and his brethren. His name was Fra Cipolla (Friar Onion) and he was gladly seen there, doubtless due as much to his name, as to other reasons, for thus it was known that the soil of those fields produces onions, that are famous throughout all Tuscany.”

But even before Giovanni Boccaccio’s Friar Onion, the red onion had already become a symbol of the hardworking, strong, and sweet nature of Certaldo’s people, and it was even on the town’s flag. It was on the white side of the two-tier shield, with the motto: “By nature, I am strong yet sweet, and everyone here likes me, those who work and those who sit.” But in 1633, the Priors in charge of the town thought the crest wasn’t good enough for their town and changed it to a lion. Later, in the XIX century, the city council brought back the original crest, which you can still see on our town’s flag today.

When you’re in Certaldo, don’t be surprised if you don’t see onions everywhere! Most farmers here grow their own for family use or to sell locally. If you’re on the hunt for these sweet red gems, your best bet is the weekly local markets on Wednesday and Saturday, or the annual Sagra della Cipolla (The Onions’ Festival).

We’re so proud of our local onions that we celebrate them every year with a week-long festival! It’s held in the old town of Certaldo Alto, usually around the end of August, when our farmers harvest the Vernina type. Every evening, we get together to enjoy the delicious dishes made with red onions, using recipes passed down through generations. People from all over come together, including locals, visitors, and even tourists, to feast on the good food and plenty of Chianti wine from our local producers, all while enjoying theater plays or themed performances.

The main goal of this event is to keep the old recipes and traditions alive, but we also want to look to the future. So, on the second-last day, the festival features a food competition between the town’s quarters, which is a preview of The Calambur: Certaldo’s medieval Palio, which will happen a few weeks later. Each quarter has to come up with a new and creative dish made with red onions. A committee of the public gets to taste and vote on the best recipe. This year’s competition is extra special because they have to create a dessert! I bet you’ve never thought of onions for dessert, but you might be surprised by the genius recipes and flavor combinations these people have come up with over the years.

They’ve evolved from simply making the usual soup, pasta, and meat dishes with red onions to pickling, canning, making jam and jelly, adding them to chutneys, sweet and salted pies, and even using them as homeopathic medicine, inspired by ancient remedies passed down from our grand-grand-parents. In essence, if you’re a big fan of red onions like we are, you can create almost anything with them!

At the Cooking School, we’re known for our most famous, handmade Red Onion Jam. It’s a family tradition that has been passed down through generations. It has a delightful bitter-sweet flavor and goes wonderfully with local pecorino cheese and salami, or Giuseppina’s special pork tenderloin in an old-style dry marinade… absolutely delicious!

If all this onion talk has captured your interest and you’re thinking of trying onions for dessert, here’s a special treat for you. This was created and shared by Carina, a friend of mine, and I’m telling you: if you’re into onions, you absolutely have to try this one!

Did we get you mouth-watering yet? Then here’s the recipe for you!

Red wine caramelized onions & dark chocolate tartlets

Slice up 2-3 sweet red onions from Certaldo and toss them into a pan with a tiny bit of unsalted butter and about 2-3 tablespoons of muscovado brown sugar. Cook it gently on low heat until it’s soft but not browned. Then, pour in a glass of Chianti red wine, sprinkle in a pinch of ground cinnamon, ground cloves, a few cardamom seeds, and some pink pepper granules (or any other spices you like). Let the liquid simmer until it’s mostly gone and the alcohol evaporates. Finally, add a chunk of dark chocolate. Let it sit for a bit, then get ready to make your favorite shortcrust pastry. The one I used had a nice rustic flavor because I mixed in half of the plain white flour with buckwheat flour. Blind-bake your pastry in a preheated oven, let it cool down before taking it out of the pan, and fill each pastry case with the caramelized onions. Sprinkle some chopped walnuts on top and finish with goat cheese crème fraîche or vanilla ice cream. Enjoy!

Have you tried this recipe? Share your photos in the comments below and tell us what you think!

kneading-fresh-pasta-handmade

P – for Pasta: fresh, handmade & delicious

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Raise your hand if you’re a homemade pasta lover!

One thing I have noticed throughout the years, is that usually making fresh pasta is the best part of my cooking classes for our guests. I mean, let’s admit it, everybody loves the ITalia’s-style fresh pasta, and if you’re visiting Italy, pasta is one of the reasons why you’re here! So delicious, savory and somewhat chewy, fresh pasta can be complemented with almost everything from cheese to vegetables, meat, fish and even chocolate! Plus, if cleverly accompanied by the right wine, it makes the perfect Italian meal.

It’s been said to be one of the healthiest and most nourishing dishes worldwide, as part of the mediterranean diet, so why be limited to just eating pasta at the restaurant every once in a while, when you can make it from scratch at home, whenever you wish.

Now, I know from my experience that cooking a dish of fresh pasta could sound rather intimidating for those who’ve never tried before, or have only seen it on TV. But I have some good news for you all, and according to my experience again, I can guarantee you that even a ten-year-old can do this, and you’ll never go back to buying fresh pasta again.

There’s something magical about making pasta at home the old way, that no one has yet managed to figure out. I myself have been doing it for years now, and every time I still have fun just like the old days.

It could be the marvel of feeling the dough coming together between your hands, or maybe the relaxing process of kneading and shaping, but as soon as you get your hands on and start doing it, you never want to stop. Then as you go, your mind lights up and you begin experimenting all different kind of shapes and fillings for your dough, and before you know it, you find yourself inviting your friends over for a meal and getting all the compliments and “aaaw”s and “oooh”s for your fresh Italian-style dishes.

It can get really fun and become a social activity to share with your kids, too. Don’t worry about the flour dust, streaked aprons and flaky bits of dough crusted on the kitchen counter. It doesn’t have to be a demanding work, so don’t loose heart if you don’t get it the first time. Just go for it and then keep trying. All you need is “an open heart and a positive attitude”, as my son Luca always says to our guests.

pasta-fresh-handmade-flour

We don’t need another pasta recipe

If you google fresh pasta you’ll find loads of recipes and every one will be different from the others, because every family has its own tradition when it comes to making pasta. So my intention isn’t just to give you one more fresh pasta recipe, but rather some helpful tips that I always share during my cooking classes.

My guests always appreciate the little tricks and tips I reveal and become more confident as they go, letting loose and having so much fun, which in the end, is the main purpose of this experience, don’t you agree?

So what’s really important is to have the right type of flour. My fail-proof recipe is based on the high-protein, finely milled “00” wheat flour, but if you have issues finding it, you can just go with the plain flour, or mix 2 parts of it with 1 part of semolina flour: this will add that slightly rougher texture that’ll help seasonings stick better to your pasta.

On a wooden or marble counter, start building a so-called “fountain” and break the eggs right in the middle, making sure they are well contained by the flour around them. Then add just a pinch of salt and a sprinkle of extravirgin olive oil. Use a fork to break the eggs and start mixing them reaaally slow, keeping everything inside the flour fountain, until everything is fully incorporated and you get a smooth uniform texture.

Now here comes the fun part! I know in modern times you may be used to getting things done quickly and with an extra help from your stand mixer, but kneading by hand is another story. It really makes you feel the dough coming together and it somehow connects you to the whole process. All you have to do is press and push with your wrist, then fold the dough over and again press and push. Just go ahead and knead it like this until it’s smooth and firm, it’ll take no more than 10-12 minutes.

Using hands gives you the chance to check when your pasta dough is ready – if you feel it’s still sticky, just dust the counter with more flour and keep kneading until firm and dry.

Another important step in making pasta, is to give your dough the necessary time to relax and loose elasticity; that’ll keep it from shrinking or pull back as you stretch it, making it easier for you to roll it flat and shape it. Let’s say about 10 minutes at room temperature, covered by a cotton cloth, should be enough. This’ll also give you the time to reorder the kitchen counter and prepare the pasta machine for shaping, or get the filling ready if you’re into making filled-pasta.

Common forms of fresh pasta have long shapes, such as tagliatelle, fettuccine, spaghetti, linguine or our specialty Tuscan pici, flat shapes such as maltagliati, or sheets for lasagna, short shapes like orecchiette, cavatelli, farfalle, trofie and filled or stuffed shapes such as cannelloni or ravioli, cappelletti and tortellini.

Of course Italy has a very deep-rooted tradition for pasta dishes, and that is why every region has its own traditional pasta shapes and names, that can be totally different from the common ones you are used to. I always suggest to search for and taste the local and regional specialties while visiting any part of Italy, because you’ll never find the same dish cooked alike from one place to another.

Cutting the pasta in the desired shape is also an important part of the process, as you have to pay attention to spread it as thinly as possible and always keep some flour handy, so you won’t get a sticky bundle instead of your tagliatelle nest… I always say to my guests, we want them to be fluffy, fluffy, fluffy, it makes them laugh a lot, but in the end is the one thing they remember the most. So to get that, you need to sprinkle some flour over the shaped pasta and then jiggle it with your hands.

When making filled pasta like ravioli, the most important trick is to press the edges well with your fingertips or a fork to seal the dough, so they won’t open while boiling. And of course, flour again to prevent them from sticking together when cooked.

If you’re not cooking pasta immediately, just let it dry on a baking sheet for a few minutes, sprinkled with flour, then fold it gently to form the nests. You can let it dry some more and then wrap it up and store in the fridge for no more than 2 days. However, I do advise you to taste it fresh, as you make it.

Cooking pasta is another important step of the process, as you need to pay attention to the time: it will only take 5-7 minutes to cook fresh pasta, unlike the dried one, which needs considerably more boiling. Dip your shaped pasta into a pot of plentiful salted boiling water and add just a touch of olive oil, so the strands won’t stick together. For fresh filled pasta, always use a gentle flame and keep the water simmering instead of boiling, so your ravioli won’t break.

One more thing that I always recommend, is to taste everything you cook; so to make sure it has reached the perfect cooking point and has a good balance with the salt, just pick a piece of boiling pasta with a fork or some tongs, and give it a bite. Careful though, don’t get burned!

Needless to say that pasta is at its best when cooked “al dente”, so as soon as you feel it’s tender but still firm when bitten, just drain it. At this point, you should keep the sauce or chosen condiment on hand, because pasta needs to be seasoned and stir-fry immediately.

Now all you need is your family and friends gathered around the table and a good glass of wine to go with your wonderful fresh homemade pasta. Enjoy!

wild-asparagus

S – for Spring and Sprouts

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How do we know its springtime here in Tuscany? Just saying “springtime is here” is dull and a little out-of-date, don’t you think?

Imagine yourself dozing in the warm sunshine, blessed by a breeze under a blooming almond tree, on the bright green grass carpet covering the hills of the outlying countryside of Certaldo; the small vibrant daisies, primroses and violets slowly popping out here and there, filling the air with their delighting scent, while birds’ and bees’ is the only buzz you can hear around you. Can you picture yourself immersed into this fairy Tuscan spring scenery?

Now, I guess that’s what it takes to describe the arrival of Spring when it comes to nature’s awakening here in Tuscany, but wait! Here at Giuseppina’s Cooking School, we have one more good green reason to say “Yay springtime!”

It’s when the wild asparagus sprouts pop out. The delicious and tender weed that grows abundant in the Tuscan countryside, mostly in arid environments, on open fields that haven’t been farmed in a while, or wherever there’s a cluster of trees. Its unique taste has been accompanying our great Tuscan culinary tradition since ages, and its multitude of uses in the kitchen have been passed on through generations in our family.

However, don’t get tricked by the name: wild asparagus sprouts are nothing like their cultivated peers, the common asparagus you can easily find at the grocery store. In fact, unlike the thick and woody sprouts of the common asparagus, the wild one is almost as thin as a grass blade, with a slightly bitter and pungent taste. Grandma always said “where there’s one there are hundreds,” and truly it is so, as wild asparagus grows rampant in big thick clusters, that we usually call “asparagiaie”.

As you might know, we’re all about keeping our traditions alive, so this is the perfect time of year to get together on Sundays, put on our rubber boots, and go hiking in the woods to find this nature’s delicacy. Sometimes, we even have a fun competition to see who can fill their basket the fastest, leaving the loser to do the hard work of cleaning and cooking the grunt once we get home. It’s a fantastic way to spend time with family or friends and bring home fresh, picked ingredients for a meal.

The best way to eat it?

But what do you do with so much of this wonderful stuff? You might be wondering. Well, even though we might have gathered a ton of wild sprouts in our baskets, it’s usually not enough. We enjoy this bounty in many ways, from eating them raw, freshly picked, or just seared with a drizzle of olive oil, black pepper, and salt, to dipping them into poached eggs. You can also combine them with classic pasta and a generous sprinkle of Parmesan shavings, or add them to a beaten egg or two and season them well for an exquisite Italian omelet with just a splash of fine balsamic vinegar.

It feels like there are as many risotto recipes as there are asparagus sprouts! But we’ve saved the best for last because there’s a dish in our family that’s been around for ages and keeps inspiring us: it’s the smooth, creamy risotto con gli asparagi, Giuseppina’s special dish for wild asparagus, and that’s why we’re always on the hunt for wild sprouts every year! Believe me, once you’ve had a taste of this beautiful spring dish, you won’t ever get enough of it. It’s nothing like the same old risotto you’re used to, it’s just so scented and delicate, yet distinctive and savory. Giuseppina sticks to and values her traditional family recipes of course, and you can only experience this live in her kitchen. But here’s a little secret I’m going to share with you: I know it might sound strange, but she never adds wine to simmer her wild asparagus risotto!

C – for Carnevale

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… and other ancient Tuscan traditions

“Semel in anno licet insanire” (once a year, it is allowed to act like crazy) – our ancestors used to say on February, during the most bizarre and outgoing celebration of the year.

The Carnival season is a tradition that we are carrying on since medieval times, when jesters used to run through the village, encouraging people – who were then oppressed by the system and used to live in extreme poverty – to parody the values of the society they lived in, and the authority of the severe political and religious commandments, by inverting the roles and creating the Backwards World, where they could disobey the rules and become whatever they wanted for a day, wearing the “clothes” of the character they were joking on, living in redundancy and acting like fools in the cheapest and most rumorous possible way.

This playful rebellion helped them get ready for Lent, the 40-day period of fasting and self-discipline where they’d give up meat and other practices to purify their bodies and souls before Easter. In fact, the word Carnival seems to have Latin origins, as “carne levare” or “carnelevarium” means “giving up on meat”, a practice apparently dated back to the Romans era.

To keep up with such a big commitment, people in the Middle Ages celebrated Carnival not just with jokes and feasting, but mostly by indulging in rich, greasy meals, pints of wine, and the sweetest desserts.

In Tuscany, we’re very connected to our old traditions, and thankfully, some of them are still a big part of our culture. When Carnival rolls around, local bakeries fill their counters with delicious sweet and fried treats, along with the traditional Tuscan dessert, which still has its original Renaissance recipe. We’re talking about the Berlingozzo (berlinˈgɔttso), a soft, moist, and flavored donut cake with one of the easiest and simplest recipes ever, just like our grandmothers used to make!

Origins of the name

This carnival dessert, disguised as a breakfast donut, used to be served on Fat Thursday, which in Florence was the day known as Berligaccio. This funny word, was the name of a fifteen-century Tuscan mask, used in Florence during Fat Thursday. It was represented by a mascot carried through the city’s streets, with loud shouts, colorful dances, and funny acting.

Just like “Carnevale”, it seems to have a Latin origin, from the word “berlengo,” which means “table.” This takes us back to the feasting and overindulging tradition of the Medieval period.

We also have a verb descended from it, that you can easily find in most of Boccaccio’s tales, as a proof of the ancient origins of this Tuscan custom. It’s “berlingare,” and it means to chat or talk nonsense after having a big meal and lots of wine. Giovanni Boccaccio, the local and most famous Late Medieval novelist, poet, and humanist from Certaldo, used this verb a lot in his works, especially when talking about or describing a female character, because he thought women were so gossipy about everything.

“lasciamo stare l’alte e grandi millanterie ch’ella fa quando berlinga coll’altre femmine”(…) “Ma solamente per voglia di berlingare (…) di che ella è vaghissima, sì ben dir le pare” – Il Corbaccio (Laberinto d’Amore) di Giovanni Boccaccio

 “forget about her great bragging about (herself) she does when she chatters with other females (…) But only for the wish to chatter is she famous, even if she thinks she speaks out right” – Il Corbaccio (Laberinto d’Amore) by Giovanni Boccaccio

The Tuscan Berlingozzo

Fat Thursday is just around the corner, and after sharing all the fun things about this special time in Tuscany, we couldn’t let you go without trying some delicious Tuscan Carnival treats. As we get ready for our traditional feast next February 23rd in Certaldo, we’re excited to share the joy of making and enjoying this classic Tuscan dessert with you. So, let’s not keep talking and come to our delightful donut!

It all starts with a couple of fresh egg yolks, beaten with sugar until they’re light and fluffy, mixed with lemon zest and a splash of freshly squeezed lemon juice, some extra virgin olive oil, and a nice cup of Vin Santo, that’s the secret ingredient!

We love our Carnival desserts to be sweet and flavorful, but our ancestors didn’t have any artificial flavors back then. They simply used the ingredients they had at home, which is what makes it so special. Therefore, we follow the old ways and add our own homemade Vin Santo, a type of Italian dessert wine usually made from white grape varieties like Trebbiano and Malvasia. It’s hung and left to dry on racks in a warm, well-ventilated area. If you ever visit Certaldo or any part of Tuscany, you can taste this wonderful sweet wine with our traditional homemade almond cookies, which we serve as a dessert at the end of your meal. It’s one of our most important landmarks here, so don’t miss it!

Now, we’re adding the flour, which we’ve mixed with a bit of potato starch and a sprinkle of salt, along with a touch of baking powder. Next, we’ll gently fold in the beaten egg whites and pour the dough into a donut-shaped baking tin. Then, we’ll pop it in the oven for about half an hour to bake. That should give us plenty of time to relax and enjoy a glass of Vin Santo while getting our masks and costumes ready for the feast. Cheers!

Ingredients: berlingozzo toscano

  • 2 fresh eggs
  • 75g. Sugar
  • 1 lemon
  • 50 ml. Vin Santo
  • 50 ml. Extra virgin olive oil
  • 150 g. Flour
  • 25 g. Potato starch
  • 6g. Baking powder
  • 1 pinch of salt

What you need 

  • 20 cm. diameter baking tin

Method

  • Preheat oven to 170 C degrees
  • Bake for about 25-30 minutes

Enjoy!