#tuscany

Aglio, Olio & Peperoncino, the Trinity of Midnight Spaghetti.

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When I think of pasta, spaghetti is the first thing that comes to mind. And when I think of spaghetti, tomato sauce is the first thing that comes to mind. But then, I think of Aglio Olio e Peperoncino. It’s a versatile recipe that can be made for any occasion. It’s the pasta that feeds everyone and makes everyone happy. And most importantly, it’s the pasta that you can make when your pantry is empty.

If you ask any Italian about this pasta, they’ll likely recall memories of an unexpected visit and an improvised meal. They might remember a late-night “spaghettata” after a hangout with friends or the everyday pasta that they make when they don’t have time or don’t want to cook anything too sophisticated.

When your pantry is empty and your fridge is lonely, you still have a bottle of olive oil, a clove of garlic that you’ve forgotten somewhere, some dried chili pepper or powder, and of course, spaghetti!

Like any simple recipe, the quality of the ingredients and the quality of execution are essential. Here, we’re talking about extra virgin olive oil and pasta al dente.

Ingredients for 4 people:

  • 6 tablespoons olive oil
  • 2 cloves of garlic
  • 1 chili pepper
  • 400g spaghetti

Method(watch the video):

  1. In a pan, warm up the oil along with the crushed cloves of garlic and the chili pepper to taste. Just before the garlic turns brown, turn off the heat to avoid a bitter taste.
  2. In a large pot of boiling water, add a handful of salt and cook the spaghetti. Strain the pasta one minute before the time indicated on the package. Then, add the pasta to the pan with the hot olive oil and sauté for a minute. Add a cup of the pasta water as the sauce reduces slightly.
  3. There are various versions and opinions on the final garnish. Remember, this is a pasta made with what you have at home, so feel free to add fresh parsley or Parmesan cheese on top, to your taste.

An honorable mention goes to the spicy mix made in Tuscany by a friend. Simply add two teaspoons of this dry mix to the oil, and the job is done. We tried it last weekend, and it was very surprising and hot!

Buon Appetito!

sportellina-tuscan-traditional-easter-cake

La Sportellina – a Tuscan traditional Easter cake

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In Tuscany, we have a unique sweet tradition called “la Sportellina” or “schiacciata di Pasqua” (literally, the Easter squashed bread). It may sound funny for a cake that doesn’t look squashed at all, but the name actually comes from the large number of eggs that need to be cracked (squashed) into the batter.

The countryside Easter traditions

During the old days, Lent was a time of fasting and repentance, so people relied on homemade products. This was a common and deeply religious tradition, especially in the countryside. Most peasant families’ meals consisted of soups, polenta, vegetables from their own farm, or homemade bread and freshly picked herbs. Occasionally, adding a pilchard in oil was a special treat that not everyone could afford. So, it’s no wonder that on Easter, people indulged in abundant dishes and plenty of meat, generously accompanied by a glass or two of good wine!

Food preparations typically began during Holy Week before Easter. Everything had to be produced in large quantities to be shared with families and neighbors as a symbol of gratitude and celebration.

As a child, I remember a lively atmosphere in our town. People would go up and down the alleys from early morning until sunset. I could sense Easter approaching just by catching a whiff of the air. Suddenly, I was enveloped in the delightful aroma of aniseed and freshly baked cake, coming from the town’s wood-fired oven. Back then, household appliances were rare, and not everyone could afford an oven. So, during the Easter rush, when women prepared numerous oven-baked goods, they would rush up and down the main street with their kneaded doughs, waiting for their turn to use the town’s oven. Imagine the oven working tirelessly day and night, baking hundreds of pans of traditional delicacies, which they would then take back home. The smell that filled the air back then was simply amazing!

tuscan-traditional-easter-cake

The origins of Sportellina cake

The connection between ancient traditions and nature is always interesting, as nothing is random. At the beginning of spring, hens laid more eggs than usual, which had to be consumed quickly due to the lack of modern storage methods. Therefore, this Easter cake, like many other seasonal cakes and dishes, was a good way to use up a significant number of eggs.

As I mentioned, our mother and grandmothers prepared this traditional cake in large quantities during Holy Week. The recipe required considerable effort and patience, given the lengthy rising and baking times. Imagine kneading and allowing the dough to rise repeatedly for at least five times before baking! This meticulous process was another reason for making the cake in large quantities. Some pieces were wrapped and given to family guests and neighbors, others were offered to the church for serving after Holy Mass on Easter Day, and a few were left for breakfast the following day.

In our fast-paced modern world, it’s challenging to imagine the time and effort required for such a lengthy and delicate preparation. Fortunately, you can easily find it at the supermarket. However, there’s something special about the experience of dipping your hands into the dough and kneading it. It’s a moment of peace and reflection, allowing your thoughts to flow freely. The sweet aroma of aniseed and mint liqueur fills your nostrils, transporting you back to your childhood. Regardless of the time it takes, the reward is immense when you see that precious piece of dough rise and turn golden brown, a testament to your dedication to preserving the tradition.

 

The Sportellina Recipe:

  • 1.5 kg 00 flour
  • 50 g brewer’s yeast
  • 150 ml milk
  • 7 eggs (plus 1 for brushing the surface)
  • 450 g sugar
  • 110 g extra virgin olive oil
  • 50 grams of butter
  • 50 grams of mint liqueur
  • 50 grams of maraschino
  • 15 grams of aniseed
  • 1 orange (zest and juice)

 

Method:

  1. First, dissolve the brewer’s yeast in the warm milk. Gradually add about 300-400 grams of flour and mix until well incorporated. Knead the dough into a ball and let it rest in a bowl for about 2 hours.
  2. After two hours, mix in 3 eggs, 150 grams of sugar, 40 grams of olive oil, and another 400 grams of flour. Let it rest again in a warm place until it doubles in volume (this time, it will take about three hours).
  3. For the third step, add in 2 eggs, 150 grams of sugar, 40 grams of olive oil, 25 grams of mint liqueur, 25 grams of maraschino, and another 400 grams of flour. Knead the dough again until all ingredients are well combined and let it rest for another 3 hours.
  4. Finally, mix in the remaining ingredients and knead the dough for a while. Then, let it rest for another 3 hours. Divide the batter into three equal parts and place them in the baking molds (we use the same molds as for Panettone). Cover the molds with a warm cloth and let them rise for 4-5 hours, or until they double in volume.
  5. Brush the top of the cakes with beaten egg and bake them in a preheated oven at 180°C for about 50 minutes, or until the surface turns brown. Let them cool in the oven for 10 more minutes before removing them.

 

(Note) You can store the cakes in a plastic bag in a cool, dry place for up to one week. This way, you can bake more pieces and offer them as an Easter gift to family and friends, or enjoy them as a delicious breakfast for a whole week! Enjoy!

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tuscan raw ham hanging

Tuscan Ham & Childhood Memories

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As I’m cozying up by the fireplace, sipping my coffee, and watching delicate snowflakes twirl in the air, I can’t help but drift back to my childhood in the countryside, surrounded by my family.

A COMMUNITY EVENT AND A FAMILY FEAST

Late winter was usually a time of rest, a pause in nature’s cycle when there wasn’t much to do in the fields. The sun often hid behind thick clouds, and the animals on the farm preferred to stay warm inside their stables.

It seems our Tuscan ancestors decided that this was the perfect time for domestic slaughtering. The cold weather was ideal for preserving the huge amounts of meat that needed to be handled during the butchering. Back then, there weren’t any big storage cellars like we have today.

In the countryside, money wasn’t the main focus. Farmers worked hard every day to make ends meet. Everything was considered a valuable resource, and the community spirit was strong. Neighbors were often the only people farmers could rely on, besides their families. Their help and hard work were always appreciated with food, wine, and a helping hand when needed.

Pig slaughtering was a big deal for the community and a family feast, so everyone pitched in. After a long day of hard work, they looked forward to an evening of delicious pork treats and good wine. Back then, it was the only time of year when people could afford to indulge in such a large amount of meat.

Pork meat has always been a valuable part of our culinary tradition because nothing was ever wasted. Even the smallest, seemingly insignificant pieces were used. Once the butcher processed it, it became a year’s supply for the farming families and a valuable trade item for other goods or services.

Following nature’s lead, our farmers had a specific way of using the products from their animals. Everything was based on the seasons, so the first things eaten were those that needed less time to prepare and age, like jowl and pork belly.

Prosciutto crudo Toscano

In Tuscany, we have a fantastic selection of cured meats and pork products, but when we think of pork, the first thing that comes to mind is the PDO Tuscan Raw Ham (Prosciutto Crudo Toscano DOP). This dry-cured, aged raw ham, probably the best in the world, is the star of the Tuscan area, along with the Tuscan Pecorino Cheese and the Chianti Wine. It’s so special that in the past, it was the last pork product to be eaten, often up to a year later. It was the finest delicacy that farmers had, and they were often proud of it. I remember that “opening” the Prosciutto was a joyful occasion, a feast where friends and family gathered to share this delicacy, but only because the first part of the hind leg had a bit too much fat around, before revealing the finest savory, chewy bites of pure raw ham; however, that doesn’t mean it was less delicious.

The Tuscan Raw Ham comes from the oldest traditions and should not be confused with the similar Raw Ham of Parma and San Daniele. The process might seem similar, but the unique flavor and the characteristic chewy, almost buttery, and salty taste of the Tuscan PDO Raw Ham are unmistakable. This is because it’s directly related to the local aromatics, customs, and the geographical area’s temperatures and humidity.

The Tuscan Raw Ham gets its typical salty taste from… well, salt, of course. But it’s not just about how much salt you use; it’s about the aging time and the specific environment with the right level of humidity where the meat is held and cured. It’s a long-standing tradition that dates back to Medieval times, when farmers used to cure the hind legs with fennel seeds that grew wild along the Tuscan fields, along with sea salt to preserve the meat. More recently, juniper, garlic, and pepper have been added to the recipe, but it still depends on each family’s tradition and customs that have been passed down through generations.

As I recall, my father used to rub pork hind legs with a garlic and pepper pomade and let them sit on a wooden table for up to 20 days. Then, he’d wash the pomade away with vinegar and, after drying it thoroughly, rub the rind-less part again with lots of salt and pepper to keep flies from eating the meat.

In our family, we didn’t waste anything, so when the ham was gone, we used the bones to flavor simpler peasant dishes like Tuscan bread soup or bean soup. But before that, my mother always saved some marrow in a small jar in the fridge. She called it her secret medicine for when my brothers and I came home with bumps and bruises—a little scrub on the spot, and the pain would disappear. Now you might find that funny, but back then, it was a miracle medicine!

And speaking of childhood memories, the best “merenda” (snack) we ever had as kids, and that we’re still obsessed with today, was the famous “panino col pane sciabo e prosciutto” (the Tuscan unsalted white bread and raw ham sandwich). Yes, because nothing is random: the typical Tuscan unsalted white bread pairs perfectly with the salty Tuscan Raw Ham, bringing out the best in this fine cured meat. Picture eating a salted piece of bread with an even saltier piece of raw ham, or aged Pecorino cheese… it’s all been figured out since ages, no wonder our culinary matches are known worldwide!

Truffles – When, What, How?

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Everything you need to know about these earthy fragranced and pungent tasting gems!

October is a wonderful time to enjoy the bounty of olives and chestnuts, perfect for cozy comfort food, warm socks, and a hot drink by the fireplace.

But, of course, the best part is the chance to hunt for truffles, especially the prized white truffle! If you’re not into cozy socks and hot drinks, truffle hunting can be quite a challenge!

WHEN IS THE BEST TIME TO TRUFFLE HUNT?

There’s no set “truffle season,” just a matter of following nature’s rhythms and knowing where to look and what to search for throughout the year. If you’re interested, keep reading as we’ll share everything you need to know about truffles!

As we mentioned, following nature’s course is a great starting point when you’re looking for truffles. First, you need to know what you’re searching for! Truffles are related to common mushrooms, actually a type of underground fungus called an Ascomycete, and specifically one of the Tuber species. They grow in partnerships with some trees’ roots, spreading their spores mainly through animals that enjoy truffles, mushrooms, and other fungi. Truffles grow independently, and you’ll rarely find more than one in a single hole, but you might find others near the same tree. Another interesting fact is that truffles actually start growing about five months before you find them, so if you discover one in winter, it likely formed during the summer. However, truffles ripen at different times, and their scent only lasts for about eight hours, and they only “live” for 10-15 days before decomposing into organic matter for small animals and the soil.

WHAT SHOULD YOU BE LOOKING FOR?

There are mainly two types of truffles, divided into other categories: the black truffle and the white truffle. Here in Tuscany, we have the black ‘summer’ truffle (Tuber aestivum) or ‘scorzone,’ which has a hard skin and dark aromatic flesh; you can find this one just under the surface of the ground. We harvest the black summer truffle from the beginning of June until late autumn, and it has a very appreciated culinary value, along with the burgundy black truffle (Tuber uncinatum), which is part of the same species but is called this way for its crocheted-like skin. Starting from late September, there is a transition period, in which it’s likely we find the last of black truffles, as well as the first ripe white ones. This marks the beginning of the eagerly awaited white truffle period, which lasts until mid-January more or less.

The white truffle (Tuber Magnatum) can be found under the roots of oaks, hazels, poplar, or beeches and has a pale light brown flesh with white marbling. It grows deeper into the ground than the black one (up to 160 ft. underground), which makes it more difficult to find. Since it forms during summer, when there is less (to none) humidity in the soil, white truffle originates deeper underground, taking advantage of the more humid part of it. A less known and used type is a kind of ‘wild’ truffle called Tuber Macrosporum, which has a strong garlic taste and is hardly ever used in the kitchen.

white-truffle-hand

For Luigi’s dogs, truffle hunting is more of a fun adventure than a job, as some might imagine. They love sniffing around the woods, hoping to find those delicious truffles, because they know there’s a tasty reward waiting for them if they do, and they’re also quite greedy for those earthy treats! Who wouldn’t be?

But what really matters is the bond between the dog and his owner. You can’t just buy or rent a trained dog and expect him to do all the work for you! You need to know, feel, and love your dog to understand his behavior and read his body language. Otherwise, you might end up with your truffles eaten by the dog before you know it, or even worse: no truffles at all!

One last thing to keep in mind is that, besides the dog, you’ll need a state license. Hunters get a special permit (which lets them search for truffles and mushrooms in any forest across Italy) by taking a special course. They learn about hunting, including the laws, how to guide, knowing the woods, and protecting the forest floor and undergrowth.

Now, we might have made that last part sound a bit daunting, but don’t worry! If you’re interested in hunting but don’t have the time to take a class and train your own dog while you’re on vacation in Italy, you can still join Luigi for a fun hunting trip in the Tuscan woods around Certaldo. You can even enjoy the bounty over a delicious four-course lunch at Cucina Giuseppina, where it’s all about great Chianti wine and homemade Tuscan treats.

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red-onion-certaldo

La Cipolla di Certaldo: the Sweet Red Onion of Certaldo

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Back in the XIV century, Boccaccio, in one of his most famous stories from The Decameron (VI, 10), wrote about Certaldo.

This little story shows that Certaldo’s red onion has been known for ages, even before the middle ages! It’s a slow food product and a true treasure of our land, available in two types: Stantina, a round, purplish onion with juicy flesh that’s best enjoyed in the summer, and Vernina, a bright red and tangy onion that’s picked from late August through the winter and is a symbol of Certaldo.

“Certaldo, as you may have heard, is a castle of Val d’ Elsa situated in our county, which, however small it may be, was once inhabited by noblemenand men of substance; and thither, for that he found good pasture there, one of the friars of the order of St. Anthony was long used to resort once a year, to get in the alms bestowed by simpletons upon him and his brethren. His name was Fra Cipolla (Friar Onion) and he was gladly seen there, doubtless due as much to his name, as to other reasons, for thus it was known that the soil of those fields produces onions, that are famous throughout all Tuscany.”

But even before Giovanni Boccaccio’s Friar Onion, the red onion had already become a symbol of the hardworking, strong, and sweet nature of Certaldo’s people, and it was even on the town’s flag. It was on the white side of the two-tier shield, with the motto: “By nature, I am strong yet sweet, and everyone here likes me, those who work and those who sit.” But in 1633, the Priors in charge of the town thought the crest wasn’t good enough for their town and changed it to a lion. Later, in the XIX century, the city council brought back the original crest, which you can still see on our town’s flag today.

When you’re in Certaldo, don’t be surprised if you don’t see onions everywhere! Most farmers here grow their own for family use or to sell locally. If you’re on the hunt for these sweet red gems, your best bet is the weekly local markets on Wednesday and Saturday, or the annual Sagra della Cipolla (The Onions’ Festival).

We’re so proud of our local onions that we celebrate them every year with a week-long festival! It’s held in the old town of Certaldo Alto, usually around the end of August, when our farmers harvest the Vernina type. Every evening, we get together to enjoy the delicious dishes made with red onions, using recipes passed down through generations. People from all over come together, including locals, visitors, and even tourists, to feast on the good food and plenty of Chianti wine from our local producers, all while enjoying theater plays or themed performances.

The main goal of this event is to keep the old recipes and traditions alive, but we also want to look to the future. So, on the second-last day, the festival features a food competition between the town’s quarters, which is a preview of The Calambur: Certaldo’s medieval Palio, which will happen a few weeks later. Each quarter has to come up with a new and creative dish made with red onions. A committee of the public gets to taste and vote on the best recipe. This year’s competition is extra special because they have to create a dessert! I bet you’ve never thought of onions for dessert, but you might be surprised by the genius recipes and flavor combinations these people have come up with over the years.

They’ve evolved from simply making the usual soup, pasta, and meat dishes with red onions to pickling, canning, making jam and jelly, adding them to chutneys, sweet and salted pies, and even using them as homeopathic medicine, inspired by ancient remedies passed down from our grand-grand-parents. In essence, if you’re a big fan of red onions like we are, you can create almost anything with them!

At the Cooking School, we’re known for our most famous, handmade Red Onion Jam. It’s a family tradition that has been passed down through generations. It has a delightful bitter-sweet flavor and goes wonderfully with local pecorino cheese and salami, or Giuseppina’s special pork tenderloin in an old-style dry marinade… absolutely delicious!

If all this onion talk has captured your interest and you’re thinking of trying onions for dessert, here’s a special treat for you. This was created and shared by Carina, a friend of mine, and I’m telling you: if you’re into onions, you absolutely have to try this one!

Did we get you mouth-watering yet? Then here’s the recipe for you!

Red wine caramelized onions & dark chocolate tartlets

Slice up 2-3 sweet red onions from Certaldo and toss them into a pan with a tiny bit of unsalted butter and about 2-3 tablespoons of muscovado brown sugar. Cook it gently on low heat until it’s soft but not browned. Then, pour in a glass of Chianti red wine, sprinkle in a pinch of ground cinnamon, ground cloves, a few cardamom seeds, and some pink pepper granules (or any other spices you like). Let the liquid simmer until it’s mostly gone and the alcohol evaporates. Finally, add a chunk of dark chocolate. Let it sit for a bit, then get ready to make your favorite shortcrust pastry. The one I used had a nice rustic flavor because I mixed in half of the plain white flour with buckwheat flour. Blind-bake your pastry in a preheated oven, let it cool down before taking it out of the pan, and fill each pastry case with the caramelized onions. Sprinkle some chopped walnuts on top and finish with goat cheese crème fraîche or vanilla ice cream. Enjoy!

Have you tried this recipe? Share your photos in the comments below and tell us what you think!

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Mercantia – A Summer Night’s Dream

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“I had a dream, one midsummer night, of those you could never imagine!
A medieval hamlet was my home: the scene of old stories, fierce battles and brave men in tights.
While roaming the streets in search of some magic I got lost in a sea full of lights,
Surrounded by thousands of people and bubbles and kites, in the wonderland of no-logic. A place where nothing is what it seems: in fact, I believe I was not even there!

Where puppets were tied upside down on their strings and dancers like feathers would fleet in the air.

The strangest of creatures shown up everywhere: the angels, the witches, the mimes.

They came out of lines of unfading poetry, like frightening beasts from prehistoric times.”

mercantia-certaldo-street-theatre-festival

“No dear, I’m afraid it was not an illusion, nor was it a dream, at all.

So stunning and surreal may seem to the strangers, but it’s been this way every year,

since I can recall.

It’s the passion of artists with remarkable talent, the brilliant work of hundreds of men,

They gather together in this medieval hamlet, to celebrate Certaldo’s street theater festival.”

mercantia-certaldo-street-theatre-festival

Mercantia is Certaldo’s biggest summer festival, and it’s a yearly event in July.

It runs for five days, and everyone comes together to watch artists from all over the world perform on the streets of the charming old medieval town. In addition, the master craftsmen show off their amazing skills in making one-of-a-kind art pieces. It’s a celebration of peace and joy, bringing people from all over the world together and making them feel like they’re at home having fun with old friends. You definitely don’t want to miss it next year!

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baccelli-fava-beans-pecorino

B – for Baccelli & Pecorino

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With springtime here, everyone’s heading out into the countryside to soak up the sun and enjoy nature’s beauty. I remember when I was a kid, we’d dive into the fields of favas, munching on the pods and hoping the farmers wouldn’t notice we’d eaten their harvest. You see, fava beans were a precious treat for the farmers’ cattle, but if you picked them early in the season, you could have a feast for yourself too!

I’m talking about “vicia faba,” an ancient member of the pea family. These fava beans, also known as broath beans or “baccelli” in Tuscany, are pale green with a nutty flavor. They grow from late March through the beginning of May.

TUSCAN FOOD IS A FAVE

It’s been shown that they’ve been farmed since ancient times and have played a significant role in the culture of many countries. They were especially popular in ancient Rome, so much so that one of the most important noble families took their surname, “i Fabi,” from these pulses. Even traces have been found in Troy, Crete, and some say in ancient Greece, where eating them was even forbidden because the black stains on the pods were linked to death. However, their nutritional value has been rediscovered recently, as fava beans went from being a luxury for the wealthy to being used for common people and cattle. Over the years, many legends have surrounded these pulses, but the most interesting one that still circulates here is the legend of the “leap pod.” It’s said that on a leap year, the fava beans inside the pods grow backward. So, if you shell one, you’ll find the beans attached downward, not to the stem. It’s just a funny legend, but you know what they say, passing down myths and legends keeps a nation’s story alive. It can be a lot of fun spending a lazy Sunday afternoon shelling pods to see who finds the backward beans on a leap year!

baccelli-fava-broath-beans

Back in the day, those tender, freshly picked favas were a fantastic treat for a springtime picnic! In Tuscany, we love them raw, simply seasoned with a pinch of salt and drizzled with extra virgin olive oil, paired with our beloved Tuscan Pecorino DOP cheese. It’s the perfect snack to accompany a glass of Chianti wine.

We’re so fond of them that we even have a one-day festival called “la baccellata” in Certaldo Alto, held on April 25th this year. It helps the local church of San Tommaso e Prospero raise funds for the procession of Beata Giulia in September. On “baccellata” day, people come together to enjoy these delicious fresh pods with Pecorino Marzolino cheese, a Tuscan fresh Pecorino that hasn’t been seasoned, which beautifully blends with the favas, creating a unique delight for all your senses.

Another delightful way to enjoy your favas raw is to make a simple and quick, yet very nutritious pesto. All you need are 250g of fresh shelled fava beans, a clove of garlic, 80g of Pecorino cheese, a pinch of salt, and some fresh basil leaves if you like. Just blend everything together and then add a splash of Tuscan extra virgin olive oil to achieve a creamy texture. You can savor this delight on toasted bread (crostini), as a side dish for meat or fish, or make a generous portion of pasta: boil it until “al dente” and stir-fry everything for one minute, adding just a drop of the boiling water if needed. Feel free to get creative and add some pine nuts or almonds to the mixture, or simply sprinkle them on top of the dish, slightly toasted.

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Our last tip: when you’re picking up favas at the market, if you’re in Tuscany, just ask for baccelli. If you’re hoping to enjoy them raw, look for tender, firm pods with a velvety fuzz and small, thin-skinned beans inside. Otherwise, you’ll need to peel the skin off, which means boiling them for a few minutes.

I guess all that’s left to say is buona baccellata! Happy favas day!

Enjoy!

wild-asparagus

S – for Spring and Sprouts

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How do we know its springtime here in Tuscany? Just saying “springtime is here” is dull and a little out-of-date, don’t you think?

Imagine yourself dozing in the warm sunshine, blessed by a breeze under a blooming almond tree, on the bright green grass carpet covering the hills of the outlying countryside of Certaldo; the small vibrant daisies, primroses and violets slowly popping out here and there, filling the air with their delighting scent, while birds’ and bees’ is the only buzz you can hear around you. Can you picture yourself immersed into this fairy Tuscan spring scenery?

Now, I guess that’s what it takes to describe the arrival of Spring when it comes to nature’s awakening here in Tuscany, but wait! Here at Giuseppina’s Cooking School, we have one more good green reason to say “Yay springtime!”

It’s when the wild asparagus sprouts pop out. The delicious and tender weed that grows abundant in the Tuscan countryside, mostly in arid environments, on open fields that haven’t been farmed in a while, or wherever there’s a cluster of trees. Its unique taste has been accompanying our great Tuscan culinary tradition since ages, and its multitude of uses in the kitchen have been passed on through generations in our family.

However, don’t get tricked by the name: wild asparagus sprouts are nothing like their cultivated peers, the common asparagus you can easily find at the grocery store. In fact, unlike the thick and woody sprouts of the common asparagus, the wild one is almost as thin as a grass blade, with a slightly bitter and pungent taste. Grandma always said “where there’s one there are hundreds,” and truly it is so, as wild asparagus grows rampant in big thick clusters, that we usually call “asparagiaie”.

As you might know, we’re all about keeping our traditions alive, so this is the perfect time of year to get together on Sundays, put on our rubber boots, and go hiking in the woods to find this nature’s delicacy. Sometimes, we even have a fun competition to see who can fill their basket the fastest, leaving the loser to do the hard work of cleaning and cooking the grunt once we get home. It’s a fantastic way to spend time with family or friends and bring home fresh, picked ingredients for a meal.

The best way to eat it?

But what do you do with so much of this wonderful stuff? You might be wondering. Well, even though we might have gathered a ton of wild sprouts in our baskets, it’s usually not enough. We enjoy this bounty in many ways, from eating them raw, freshly picked, or just seared with a drizzle of olive oil, black pepper, and salt, to dipping them into poached eggs. You can also combine them with classic pasta and a generous sprinkle of Parmesan shavings, or add them to a beaten egg or two and season them well for an exquisite Italian omelet with just a splash of fine balsamic vinegar.

It feels like there are as many risotto recipes as there are asparagus sprouts! But we’ve saved the best for last because there’s a dish in our family that’s been around for ages and keeps inspiring us: it’s the smooth, creamy risotto con gli asparagi, Giuseppina’s special dish for wild asparagus, and that’s why we’re always on the hunt for wild sprouts every year! Believe me, once you’ve had a taste of this beautiful spring dish, you won’t ever get enough of it. It’s nothing like the same old risotto you’re used to, it’s just so scented and delicate, yet distinctive and savory. Giuseppina sticks to and values her traditional family recipes of course, and you can only experience this live in her kitchen. But here’s a little secret I’m going to share with you: I know it might sound strange, but she never adds wine to simmer her wild asparagus risotto!

C – for Carnevale

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… and other ancient Tuscan traditions

“Semel in anno licet insanire” (once a year, it is allowed to act like crazy) – our ancestors used to say on February, during the most bizarre and outgoing celebration of the year.

The Carnival season is a tradition that we are carrying on since medieval times, when jesters used to run through the village, encouraging people – who were then oppressed by the system and used to live in extreme poverty – to parody the values of the society they lived in, and the authority of the severe political and religious commandments, by inverting the roles and creating the Backwards World, where they could disobey the rules and become whatever they wanted for a day, wearing the “clothes” of the character they were joking on, living in redundancy and acting like fools in the cheapest and most rumorous possible way.

This playful rebellion helped them get ready for Lent, the 40-day period of fasting and self-discipline where they’d give up meat and other practices to purify their bodies and souls before Easter. In fact, the word Carnival seems to have Latin origins, as “carne levare” or “carnelevarium” means “giving up on meat”, a practice apparently dated back to the Romans era.

To keep up with such a big commitment, people in the Middle Ages celebrated Carnival not just with jokes and feasting, but mostly by indulging in rich, greasy meals, pints of wine, and the sweetest desserts.

In Tuscany, we’re very connected to our old traditions, and thankfully, some of them are still a big part of our culture. When Carnival rolls around, local bakeries fill their counters with delicious sweet and fried treats, along with the traditional Tuscan dessert, which still has its original Renaissance recipe. We’re talking about the Berlingozzo (berlinˈgɔttso), a soft, moist, and flavored donut cake with one of the easiest and simplest recipes ever, just like our grandmothers used to make!

Origins of the name

This carnival dessert, disguised as a breakfast donut, used to be served on Fat Thursday, which in Florence was the day known as Berligaccio. This funny word, was the name of a fifteen-century Tuscan mask, used in Florence during Fat Thursday. It was represented by a mascot carried through the city’s streets, with loud shouts, colorful dances, and funny acting.

Just like “Carnevale”, it seems to have a Latin origin, from the word “berlengo,” which means “table.” This takes us back to the feasting and overindulging tradition of the Medieval period.

We also have a verb descended from it, that you can easily find in most of Boccaccio’s tales, as a proof of the ancient origins of this Tuscan custom. It’s “berlingare,” and it means to chat or talk nonsense after having a big meal and lots of wine. Giovanni Boccaccio, the local and most famous Late Medieval novelist, poet, and humanist from Certaldo, used this verb a lot in his works, especially when talking about or describing a female character, because he thought women were so gossipy about everything.

“lasciamo stare l’alte e grandi millanterie ch’ella fa quando berlinga coll’altre femmine”(…) “Ma solamente per voglia di berlingare (…) di che ella è vaghissima, sì ben dir le pare” – Il Corbaccio (Laberinto d’Amore) di Giovanni Boccaccio

 “forget about her great bragging about (herself) she does when she chatters with other females (…) But only for the wish to chatter is she famous, even if she thinks she speaks out right” – Il Corbaccio (Laberinto d’Amore) by Giovanni Boccaccio

The Tuscan Berlingozzo

Fat Thursday is just around the corner, and after sharing all the fun things about this special time in Tuscany, we couldn’t let you go without trying some delicious Tuscan Carnival treats. As we get ready for our traditional feast next February 23rd in Certaldo, we’re excited to share the joy of making and enjoying this classic Tuscan dessert with you. So, let’s not keep talking and come to our delightful donut!

It all starts with a couple of fresh egg yolks, beaten with sugar until they’re light and fluffy, mixed with lemon zest and a splash of freshly squeezed lemon juice, some extra virgin olive oil, and a nice cup of Vin Santo, that’s the secret ingredient!

We love our Carnival desserts to be sweet and flavorful, but our ancestors didn’t have any artificial flavors back then. They simply used the ingredients they had at home, which is what makes it so special. Therefore, we follow the old ways and add our own homemade Vin Santo, a type of Italian dessert wine usually made from white grape varieties like Trebbiano and Malvasia. It’s hung and left to dry on racks in a warm, well-ventilated area. If you ever visit Certaldo or any part of Tuscany, you can taste this wonderful sweet wine with our traditional homemade almond cookies, which we serve as a dessert at the end of your meal. It’s one of our most important landmarks here, so don’t miss it!

Now, we’re adding the flour, which we’ve mixed with a bit of potato starch and a sprinkle of salt, along with a touch of baking powder. Next, we’ll gently fold in the beaten egg whites and pour the dough into a donut-shaped baking tin. Then, we’ll pop it in the oven for about half an hour to bake. That should give us plenty of time to relax and enjoy a glass of Vin Santo while getting our masks and costumes ready for the feast. Cheers!

Ingredients: berlingozzo toscano

  • 2 fresh eggs
  • 75g. Sugar
  • 1 lemon
  • 50 ml. Vin Santo
  • 50 ml. Extra virgin olive oil
  • 150 g. Flour
  • 25 g. Potato starch
  • 6g. Baking powder
  • 1 pinch of salt

What you need 

  • 20 cm. diameter baking tin

Method

  • Preheat oven to 170 C degrees
  • Bake for about 25-30 minutes

Enjoy!

V – for Vineyards

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“While Nature Awakens” – behind the scenes

Every January is a fresh start here at Giuseppina’s Cooking School; as nature stirs, we get ready for a new year brimming with fantastic recipes, delicious homemade preserves, and exquisite Chianti wine straight from our vineyards.

The air is buzzing with excitement here, and as Giuseppina gets ready to welcome and delight her guests this season with new kitchen tricks and tips on her Tuscan recipes, we’re about to start preparing our vineyards for a fantastic harvest year of fresh, wonderful wine that will perfectly complement our local dishes.

Harvest is just the final act of a long year

Since nature can’t wait, the perfect moment has arrived for us to tend to our vines, ensuring they give us their best rewards. It’s a moment of deep devotion, focusing on the vine’s new vegetative growth, just as we would with one of our homemade pasta dishes or bread. We begin by “kneading” the soil just enough to allow it to breathe after a long, cold winter. Then, we add the “spices” (winter fertilizer) that will help the vine’s heart grow its best harvest, giving the wine that perfect blend of flavors that makes Chianti wine famous and loved worldwide. Now, we’re almost done, and we start trimming the vine, restoring its shape. It’s probably the most important part of the work because a clean-shaped vine means a richer harvest. As an old saying goes, once a vine told its owner:

“fammi povera e ti farò ricco”

(Keep me poor -of unwanted trims- and I will make you rich -of the best grapes-).

The vine is a symbol of abundance, representing love for the land in the form of grapes. To create the best wine, it requires a deep passion and unwavering perseverance, fully utilizing the incredible qualities that Chianti’s land offers.

The wine harvest and tasting are the culmination of a year of dedicated effort and care, which we’re excited to share with our guests. We aim to take them beyond the typical tourist spots, beyond just a simple wine tasting or a casual visit to the vineyards, offering them a genuine experience of growing Chianti vines and becoming part of the story.

We’re here to provide them with the authentic experience of Chianti vine cultivation, making them an integral part of the journey.

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