#Certaldo

Panzanella – Traditional Tuscan Bread Salad

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Ingredients for 6 people:

  • 600 grams of two-day-old Tuscan bread
  • 6 ripe but firm tomatoes
  • 1 red onion
  • 1 cucumber of your preferred variety
  • A handful of basil leaves
  • 6 tablespoons of red wine vinegar
  • 3 four-finger pinches of salt

(Note) The key to making a delicious Panzanella lies in knowing how to soak the bread, using good extra virgin olive oil, and excellent vinegar. But if you follow my instructions, you’ll all become master Panzanella makers!

Method:

  1. On the table in front of you, arrange the following items from left to right (if you’re right-handed, do the opposite): the old bread cut into slices about one finger thick, a basin filled with cold water, and an empty salad bowl.
  2. Soak each slice of bread in the cold water for about 5 seconds, then squeeze out all the excess water using your hands. Next, break the soaked bread into large chunks and place them in the salad bowl.
  3. The bread should be damp but not soggy. If you leave it in the water for too long, it will become a pulp that won’t blend well with the fresh vegetables.
  4. Now, you’ve done most of the work! Cut the tomatoes into thumb-sized pieces, slice the onion into thin rings, break the basil leaves with your fingers, peel and slice the cucumber into thin round slices. Finally, add the seasoning: olive oil, salt, and vinegar.
  5. Mix the ingredients gently with your hands to avoid breaking down the texture. Let the Panzanella cool in the refrigerator for at least half an hour before serving.

Farmers used to make this dish during the harvest season to refresh themselves. It was often brought directly to the fields by their wives, saving time by not having to return home for lunch. Originally, it was a simple dish, often accompanied by diluted wine. It was a refreshing and light meal that quenched thirst without being heavy. The recipe has a long history, dating back to 700 years ago when Giovanni Boccaccio, a poet from our town, referred to it as “Pan lavato,” or “washed bread.” Tomatoes were added to the dish after the discovery of the New World. The name seems to be a combination of “pane,” meaning bread, and “alzanella,” an old word for a large salad bowl.

 

tuscan raw ham hanging

Tuscan Ham & Childhood Memories

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As I’m cozying up by the fireplace, sipping my coffee, and watching delicate snowflakes twirl in the air, I can’t help but drift back to my childhood in the countryside, surrounded by my family.

A COMMUNITY EVENT AND A FAMILY FEAST

Late winter was usually a time of rest, a pause in nature’s cycle when there wasn’t much to do in the fields. The sun often hid behind thick clouds, and the animals on the farm preferred to stay warm inside their stables.

It seems our Tuscan ancestors decided that this was the perfect time for domestic slaughtering. The cold weather was ideal for preserving the huge amounts of meat that needed to be handled during the butchering. Back then, there weren’t any big storage cellars like we have today.

In the countryside, money wasn’t the main focus. Farmers worked hard every day to make ends meet. Everything was considered a valuable resource, and the community spirit was strong. Neighbors were often the only people farmers could rely on, besides their families. Their help and hard work were always appreciated with food, wine, and a helping hand when needed.

Pig slaughtering was a big deal for the community and a family feast, so everyone pitched in. After a long day of hard work, they looked forward to an evening of delicious pork treats and good wine. Back then, it was the only time of year when people could afford to indulge in such a large amount of meat.

Pork meat has always been a valuable part of our culinary tradition because nothing was ever wasted. Even the smallest, seemingly insignificant pieces were used. Once the butcher processed it, it became a year’s supply for the farming families and a valuable trade item for other goods or services.

Following nature’s lead, our farmers had a specific way of using the products from their animals. Everything was based on the seasons, so the first things eaten were those that needed less time to prepare and age, like jowl and pork belly.

Prosciutto crudo Toscano

In Tuscany, we have a fantastic selection of cured meats and pork products, but when we think of pork, the first thing that comes to mind is the PDO Tuscan Raw Ham (Prosciutto Crudo Toscano DOP). This dry-cured, aged raw ham, probably the best in the world, is the star of the Tuscan area, along with the Tuscan Pecorino Cheese and the Chianti Wine. It’s so special that in the past, it was the last pork product to be eaten, often up to a year later. It was the finest delicacy that farmers had, and they were often proud of it. I remember that “opening” the Prosciutto was a joyful occasion, a feast where friends and family gathered to share this delicacy, but only because the first part of the hind leg had a bit too much fat around, before revealing the finest savory, chewy bites of pure raw ham; however, that doesn’t mean it was less delicious.

The Tuscan Raw Ham comes from the oldest traditions and should not be confused with the similar Raw Ham of Parma and San Daniele. The process might seem similar, but the unique flavor and the characteristic chewy, almost buttery, and salty taste of the Tuscan PDO Raw Ham are unmistakable. This is because it’s directly related to the local aromatics, customs, and the geographical area’s temperatures and humidity.

The Tuscan Raw Ham gets its typical salty taste from… well, salt, of course. But it’s not just about how much salt you use; it’s about the aging time and the specific environment with the right level of humidity where the meat is held and cured. It’s a long-standing tradition that dates back to Medieval times, when farmers used to cure the hind legs with fennel seeds that grew wild along the Tuscan fields, along with sea salt to preserve the meat. More recently, juniper, garlic, and pepper have been added to the recipe, but it still depends on each family’s tradition and customs that have been passed down through generations.

As I recall, my father used to rub pork hind legs with a garlic and pepper pomade and let them sit on a wooden table for up to 20 days. Then, he’d wash the pomade away with vinegar and, after drying it thoroughly, rub the rind-less part again with lots of salt and pepper to keep flies from eating the meat.

In our family, we didn’t waste anything, so when the ham was gone, we used the bones to flavor simpler peasant dishes like Tuscan bread soup or bean soup. But before that, my mother always saved some marrow in a small jar in the fridge. She called it her secret medicine for when my brothers and I came home with bumps and bruises—a little scrub on the spot, and the pain would disappear. Now you might find that funny, but back then, it was a miracle medicine!

And speaking of childhood memories, the best “merenda” (snack) we ever had as kids, and that we’re still obsessed with today, was the famous “panino col pane sciabo e prosciutto” (the Tuscan unsalted white bread and raw ham sandwich). Yes, because nothing is random: the typical Tuscan unsalted white bread pairs perfectly with the salty Tuscan Raw Ham, bringing out the best in this fine cured meat. Picture eating a salted piece of bread with an even saltier piece of raw ham, or aged Pecorino cheese… it’s all been figured out since ages, no wonder our culinary matches are known worldwide!

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Baby it’s cold outside!

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The renowned Florentine bread soup

In the past, a chilly winter day in the countryside was often warmed up by a comforting pot of hot vegetable soup, known as ‘ribollita’ or ‘minestra di pane’ (bread soup). This traditional peasant dish, with its deep roots in the Middle Ages, was typically prepared in large batches on Fridays to be enjoyed over the weekend. The reason behind this practice was twofold: it ensured that the soup could be stored and consumed for several days, providing sustenance for the entire family. Moreover, the soup turned out even more flavorful the day after it was made. Initially, the soup was served with chunks of white Tuscan bread, which were dipped into it, creating the delightful combination of ‘minestra di pane’ (bread soup). The leftovers were then re-boiled the following day, resulting in the hearty ‘ribollita’ (re-boiled bread soup).

Ingredients: Cavolo nero

To this day, Tuscan bread soup remains the ideal way to keep warm during the cold season while simultaneously providing a nutritious boost of vegetables. Its perfect blend of carbohydrates, legumes, and vegetables makes it a wholesome choice.

 

The star of this dish, and the one that truly defines its character, is the Tuscan kale, also known as lancinato kale. It is an essential ingredient for an authentic taste, and it is impossible to call it ‘ribollita’ without it. We refer to it as ‘cavolo nero’ (translated as black cabbage), and it is a leafy, dark-green type of cabbage that is packed with over 50% of the recommended daily allowance of vitamins A, C, and K. It is also rich in antioxidants and other essential nutrients, and it is remarkably low in calories. This super ingredient can be found in every Tuscan farmer’s orchard from November through spring. It is best enjoyed freshly picked during the cold season.

The recipe for Tuscan bread soup is a family heirloom that has been passed down through generations. It’s a simple yet delicious dish that fills your home with the comforting aroma of a special dinner.

 

Ingredients:

  • Extra virgin olive oil, freshly cold-pressed
  • 300 grams of dry borlotti beans
  • 400 grams of Tuscan kale
  • 3 carrots
  • 3 potatoes
  • 1 red onion
  • 1 celery stalk
  • 1 twig of thyme
  • 2 cloves of garlic
  • 2 thick slices of Tuscan prosciutto pork ham

Method:

  1. In a large pot, heat a generous amount of extra virgin olive oil over a low flame. Add the prosciutto, carrots, celery, and chopped onion. Cover the pot and stir-fry for about 5 minutes. Add the remaining vegetables, thyme, and beans.
  2. Make sure the vegetables are cut into small pieces to ensure a thick but not chunky soup. Pour in at least 1 liter of hot water and 3 four-fingered pinches of salt. Lower the flame and cook for at least 90 minutes, covered with a lid.
  3. Serve the soup piping hot, garnished with freshly ground pepper and chunks of Tuscan white bread. The bread can be dipped into the soup, lightly rubbed with garlic, and generously sprinkled with Tuscan extra virgin olive oil.

 

(Note) For the best flavor, let the soup sit in the refrigerator for a night. This allows the flavors to meld together beautifully. The next day, simply bring the entire pot to a boil and enjoy a warm bowl of delicious ribollita.

 

This Tuscan basic recipe is perfect for the season. Why not try it out and impress your family with a new and nutritious dish that will warm your winter holidays?

Oh, and remember: when you visit Italy during the summer months, don’t ask for a pot of ribollita. It’s definitely off season! Have a holly jolly winter everyone!

Truffles – When, What, How?

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Everything you need to know about these earthy fragranced and pungent tasting gems!

October is a wonderful time to enjoy the bounty of olives and chestnuts, perfect for cozy comfort food, warm socks, and a hot drink by the fireplace.

But, of course, the best part is the chance to hunt for truffles, especially the prized white truffle! If you’re not into cozy socks and hot drinks, truffle hunting can be quite a challenge!

WHEN IS THE BEST TIME TO TRUFFLE HUNT?

There’s no set “truffle season,” just a matter of following nature’s rhythms and knowing where to look and what to search for throughout the year. If you’re interested, keep reading as we’ll share everything you need to know about truffles!

As we mentioned, following nature’s course is a great starting point when you’re looking for truffles. First, you need to know what you’re searching for! Truffles are related to common mushrooms, actually a type of underground fungus called an Ascomycete, and specifically one of the Tuber species. They grow in partnerships with some trees’ roots, spreading their spores mainly through animals that enjoy truffles, mushrooms, and other fungi. Truffles grow independently, and you’ll rarely find more than one in a single hole, but you might find others near the same tree. Another interesting fact is that truffles actually start growing about five months before you find them, so if you discover one in winter, it likely formed during the summer. However, truffles ripen at different times, and their scent only lasts for about eight hours, and they only “live” for 10-15 days before decomposing into organic matter for small animals and the soil.

WHAT SHOULD YOU BE LOOKING FOR?

There are mainly two types of truffles, divided into other categories: the black truffle and the white truffle. Here in Tuscany, we have the black ‘summer’ truffle (Tuber aestivum) or ‘scorzone,’ which has a hard skin and dark aromatic flesh; you can find this one just under the surface of the ground. We harvest the black summer truffle from the beginning of June until late autumn, and it has a very appreciated culinary value, along with the burgundy black truffle (Tuber uncinatum), which is part of the same species but is called this way for its crocheted-like skin. Starting from late September, there is a transition period, in which it’s likely we find the last of black truffles, as well as the first ripe white ones. This marks the beginning of the eagerly awaited white truffle period, which lasts until mid-January more or less.

The white truffle (Tuber Magnatum) can be found under the roots of oaks, hazels, poplar, or beeches and has a pale light brown flesh with white marbling. It grows deeper into the ground than the black one (up to 160 ft. underground), which makes it more difficult to find. Since it forms during summer, when there is less (to none) humidity in the soil, white truffle originates deeper underground, taking advantage of the more humid part of it. A less known and used type is a kind of ‘wild’ truffle called Tuber Macrosporum, which has a strong garlic taste and is hardly ever used in the kitchen.

white-truffle-hand

For Luigi’s dogs, truffle hunting is more of a fun adventure than a job, as some might imagine. They love sniffing around the woods, hoping to find those delicious truffles, because they know there’s a tasty reward waiting for them if they do, and they’re also quite greedy for those earthy treats! Who wouldn’t be?

But what really matters is the bond between the dog and his owner. You can’t just buy or rent a trained dog and expect him to do all the work for you! You need to know, feel, and love your dog to understand his behavior and read his body language. Otherwise, you might end up with your truffles eaten by the dog before you know it, or even worse: no truffles at all!

One last thing to keep in mind is that, besides the dog, you’ll need a state license. Hunters get a special permit (which lets them search for truffles and mushrooms in any forest across Italy) by taking a special course. They learn about hunting, including the laws, how to guide, knowing the woods, and protecting the forest floor and undergrowth.

Now, we might have made that last part sound a bit daunting, but don’t worry! If you’re interested in hunting but don’t have the time to take a class and train your own dog while you’re on vacation in Italy, you can still join Luigi for a fun hunting trip in the Tuscan woods around Certaldo. You can even enjoy the bounty over a delicious four-course lunch at Cucina Giuseppina, where it’s all about great Chianti wine and homemade Tuscan treats.

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La Cipolla di Certaldo: the Sweet Red Onion of Certaldo

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Back in the XIV century, Boccaccio, in one of his most famous stories from The Decameron (VI, 10), wrote about Certaldo.

This little story shows that Certaldo’s red onion has been known for ages, even before the middle ages! It’s a slow food product and a true treasure of our land, available in two types: Stantina, a round, purplish onion with juicy flesh that’s best enjoyed in the summer, and Vernina, a bright red and tangy onion that’s picked from late August through the winter and is a symbol of Certaldo.

“Certaldo, as you may have heard, is a castle of Val d’ Elsa situated in our county, which, however small it may be, was once inhabited by noblemenand men of substance; and thither, for that he found good pasture there, one of the friars of the order of St. Anthony was long used to resort once a year, to get in the alms bestowed by simpletons upon him and his brethren. His name was Fra Cipolla (Friar Onion) and he was gladly seen there, doubtless due as much to his name, as to other reasons, for thus it was known that the soil of those fields produces onions, that are famous throughout all Tuscany.”

But even before Giovanni Boccaccio’s Friar Onion, the red onion had already become a symbol of the hardworking, strong, and sweet nature of Certaldo’s people, and it was even on the town’s flag. It was on the white side of the two-tier shield, with the motto: “By nature, I am strong yet sweet, and everyone here likes me, those who work and those who sit.” But in 1633, the Priors in charge of the town thought the crest wasn’t good enough for their town and changed it to a lion. Later, in the XIX century, the city council brought back the original crest, which you can still see on our town’s flag today.

When you’re in Certaldo, don’t be surprised if you don’t see onions everywhere! Most farmers here grow their own for family use or to sell locally. If you’re on the hunt for these sweet red gems, your best bet is the weekly local markets on Wednesday and Saturday, or the annual Sagra della Cipolla (The Onions’ Festival).

We’re so proud of our local onions that we celebrate them every year with a week-long festival! It’s held in the old town of Certaldo Alto, usually around the end of August, when our farmers harvest the Vernina type. Every evening, we get together to enjoy the delicious dishes made with red onions, using recipes passed down through generations. People from all over come together, including locals, visitors, and even tourists, to feast on the good food and plenty of Chianti wine from our local producers, all while enjoying theater plays or themed performances.

The main goal of this event is to keep the old recipes and traditions alive, but we also want to look to the future. So, on the second-last day, the festival features a food competition between the town’s quarters, which is a preview of The Calambur: Certaldo’s medieval Palio, which will happen a few weeks later. Each quarter has to come up with a new and creative dish made with red onions. A committee of the public gets to taste and vote on the best recipe. This year’s competition is extra special because they have to create a dessert! I bet you’ve never thought of onions for dessert, but you might be surprised by the genius recipes and flavor combinations these people have come up with over the years.

They’ve evolved from simply making the usual soup, pasta, and meat dishes with red onions to pickling, canning, making jam and jelly, adding them to chutneys, sweet and salted pies, and even using them as homeopathic medicine, inspired by ancient remedies passed down from our grand-grand-parents. In essence, if you’re a big fan of red onions like we are, you can create almost anything with them!

At the Cooking School, we’re known for our most famous, handmade Red Onion Jam. It’s a family tradition that has been passed down through generations. It has a delightful bitter-sweet flavor and goes wonderfully with local pecorino cheese and salami, or Giuseppina’s special pork tenderloin in an old-style dry marinade… absolutely delicious!

If all this onion talk has captured your interest and you’re thinking of trying onions for dessert, here’s a special treat for you. This was created and shared by Carina, a friend of mine, and I’m telling you: if you’re into onions, you absolutely have to try this one!

Did we get you mouth-watering yet? Then here’s the recipe for you!

Red wine caramelized onions & dark chocolate tartlets

Slice up 2-3 sweet red onions from Certaldo and toss them into a pan with a tiny bit of unsalted butter and about 2-3 tablespoons of muscovado brown sugar. Cook it gently on low heat until it’s soft but not browned. Then, pour in a glass of Chianti red wine, sprinkle in a pinch of ground cinnamon, ground cloves, a few cardamom seeds, and some pink pepper granules (or any other spices you like). Let the liquid simmer until it’s mostly gone and the alcohol evaporates. Finally, add a chunk of dark chocolate. Let it sit for a bit, then get ready to make your favorite shortcrust pastry. The one I used had a nice rustic flavor because I mixed in half of the plain white flour with buckwheat flour. Blind-bake your pastry in a preheated oven, let it cool down before taking it out of the pan, and fill each pastry case with the caramelized onions. Sprinkle some chopped walnuts on top and finish with goat cheese crème fraîche or vanilla ice cream. Enjoy!

Have you tried this recipe? Share your photos in the comments below and tell us what you think!

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Mercantia – A Summer Night’s Dream

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“I had a dream, one midsummer night, of those you could never imagine!
A medieval hamlet was my home: the scene of old stories, fierce battles and brave men in tights.
While roaming the streets in search of some magic I got lost in a sea full of lights,
Surrounded by thousands of people and bubbles and kites, in the wonderland of no-logic. A place where nothing is what it seems: in fact, I believe I was not even there!

Where puppets were tied upside down on their strings and dancers like feathers would fleet in the air.

The strangest of creatures shown up everywhere: the angels, the witches, the mimes.

They came out of lines of unfading poetry, like frightening beasts from prehistoric times.”

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“No dear, I’m afraid it was not an illusion, nor was it a dream, at all.

So stunning and surreal may seem to the strangers, but it’s been this way every year,

since I can recall.

It’s the passion of artists with remarkable talent, the brilliant work of hundreds of men,

They gather together in this medieval hamlet, to celebrate Certaldo’s street theater festival.”

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Mercantia is Certaldo’s biggest summer festival, and it’s a yearly event in July.

It runs for five days, and everyone comes together to watch artists from all over the world perform on the streets of the charming old medieval town. In addition, the master craftsmen show off their amazing skills in making one-of-a-kind art pieces. It’s a celebration of peace and joy, bringing people from all over the world together and making them feel like they’re at home having fun with old friends. You definitely don’t want to miss it next year!

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C – for Carnevale

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… and other ancient Tuscan traditions

“Semel in anno licet insanire” (once a year, it is allowed to act like crazy) – our ancestors used to say on February, during the most bizarre and outgoing celebration of the year.

The Carnival season is a tradition that we are carrying on since medieval times, when jesters used to run through the village, encouraging people – who were then oppressed by the system and used to live in extreme poverty – to parody the values of the society they lived in, and the authority of the severe political and religious commandments, by inverting the roles and creating the Backwards World, where they could disobey the rules and become whatever they wanted for a day, wearing the “clothes” of the character they were joking on, living in redundancy and acting like fools in the cheapest and most rumorous possible way.

This playful rebellion helped them get ready for Lent, the 40-day period of fasting and self-discipline where they’d give up meat and other practices to purify their bodies and souls before Easter. In fact, the word Carnival seems to have Latin origins, as “carne levare” or “carnelevarium” means “giving up on meat”, a practice apparently dated back to the Romans era.

To keep up with such a big commitment, people in the Middle Ages celebrated Carnival not just with jokes and feasting, but mostly by indulging in rich, greasy meals, pints of wine, and the sweetest desserts.

In Tuscany, we’re very connected to our old traditions, and thankfully, some of them are still a big part of our culture. When Carnival rolls around, local bakeries fill their counters with delicious sweet and fried treats, along with the traditional Tuscan dessert, which still has its original Renaissance recipe. We’re talking about the Berlingozzo (berlinˈgɔttso), a soft, moist, and flavored donut cake with one of the easiest and simplest recipes ever, just like our grandmothers used to make!

Origins of the name

This carnival dessert, disguised as a breakfast donut, used to be served on Fat Thursday, which in Florence was the day known as Berligaccio. This funny word, was the name of a fifteen-century Tuscan mask, used in Florence during Fat Thursday. It was represented by a mascot carried through the city’s streets, with loud shouts, colorful dances, and funny acting.

Just like “Carnevale”, it seems to have a Latin origin, from the word “berlengo,” which means “table.” This takes us back to the feasting and overindulging tradition of the Medieval period.

We also have a verb descended from it, that you can easily find in most of Boccaccio’s tales, as a proof of the ancient origins of this Tuscan custom. It’s “berlingare,” and it means to chat or talk nonsense after having a big meal and lots of wine. Giovanni Boccaccio, the local and most famous Late Medieval novelist, poet, and humanist from Certaldo, used this verb a lot in his works, especially when talking about or describing a female character, because he thought women were so gossipy about everything.

“lasciamo stare l’alte e grandi millanterie ch’ella fa quando berlinga coll’altre femmine”(…) “Ma solamente per voglia di berlingare (…) di che ella è vaghissima, sì ben dir le pare” – Il Corbaccio (Laberinto d’Amore) di Giovanni Boccaccio

 “forget about her great bragging about (herself) she does when she chatters with other females (…) But only for the wish to chatter is she famous, even if she thinks she speaks out right” – Il Corbaccio (Laberinto d’Amore) by Giovanni Boccaccio

The Tuscan Berlingozzo

Fat Thursday is just around the corner, and after sharing all the fun things about this special time in Tuscany, we couldn’t let you go without trying some delicious Tuscan Carnival treats. As we get ready for our traditional feast next February 23rd in Certaldo, we’re excited to share the joy of making and enjoying this classic Tuscan dessert with you. So, let’s not keep talking and come to our delightful donut!

It all starts with a couple of fresh egg yolks, beaten with sugar until they’re light and fluffy, mixed with lemon zest and a splash of freshly squeezed lemon juice, some extra virgin olive oil, and a nice cup of Vin Santo, that’s the secret ingredient!

We love our Carnival desserts to be sweet and flavorful, but our ancestors didn’t have any artificial flavors back then. They simply used the ingredients they had at home, which is what makes it so special. Therefore, we follow the old ways and add our own homemade Vin Santo, a type of Italian dessert wine usually made from white grape varieties like Trebbiano and Malvasia. It’s hung and left to dry on racks in a warm, well-ventilated area. If you ever visit Certaldo or any part of Tuscany, you can taste this wonderful sweet wine with our traditional homemade almond cookies, which we serve as a dessert at the end of your meal. It’s one of our most important landmarks here, so don’t miss it!

Now, we’re adding the flour, which we’ve mixed with a bit of potato starch and a sprinkle of salt, along with a touch of baking powder. Next, we’ll gently fold in the beaten egg whites and pour the dough into a donut-shaped baking tin. Then, we’ll pop it in the oven for about half an hour to bake. That should give us plenty of time to relax and enjoy a glass of Vin Santo while getting our masks and costumes ready for the feast. Cheers!

Ingredients: berlingozzo toscano

  • 2 fresh eggs
  • 75g. Sugar
  • 1 lemon
  • 50 ml. Vin Santo
  • 50 ml. Extra virgin olive oil
  • 150 g. Flour
  • 25 g. Potato starch
  • 6g. Baking powder
  • 1 pinch of salt

What you need 

  • 20 cm. diameter baking tin

Method

  • Preheat oven to 170 C degrees
  • Bake for about 25-30 minutes

Enjoy!