Seasonal

Risotto di Asparagi Selvatici

Personal Chef, Primo, Seasonal, Truffle Lunch, ,

If you want to learn how to cook with our family, come visit us in Tuscany!

Ingredients for 4 people:

  • 200 grams wild asparagus
  • 2 shallots (small)
  • Four hands full arborio rice
  • 2 tablespoons Parmigiano-Reggiano
  • 1 tablespoon butter
  • 1.5 liters vegetable broth
  • 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 
  • Pinch of salt
  • Pepper

Risotto ingredients

What you need:

  • Pan with a bottom for even cooking
  • Small pot for vegetable broth
  • Ladle (we use the perforated risotto ladle, available here)
  • Cutting board
  • Knife
  • Spoon
  • Cupped ladle

Before You Begin:

  1. Fill the small pot halfway with water. This water will be used for the vegetable broth.
  2. Add the discarded asparagus and shallots to the pot.
  3. Bring it to a boil for a few minutes.
  4. Use the vegetable broth when cooking the risotto.

 

 

Asparagus

Method for Asparagus Sauce:

  1. On a cutting board, finely chop the shallot in the tender part and put it in a pan at room temperature. Add extra virgin olive oil (2 tablespoons) and a pinch of salt to the pan.
  2. Next, separate the asparagus from the woody base, using only the tender part. To separate the two parts, apply light pressure starting at the base and moving towards the tip until the asparagus breaks in half at its tender point.
  3. Set aside the woody part of the asparagus for the vegetable broth. Cut the asparagus into slices, leaving the tips intact for decorative purposes.
  4. Sauté the shallot for a few seconds and add the asparagus to the pan. If necessary, add vegetable broth to the pan.
  5. Cook the asparagus for 4-5 minutes until it is tender.
  6. Taste the asparagus to ensure it is cooked to your liking. Season with salt and pepper.

Method for Risotto

  1. Take another pan and add rice and a tablespoon of oil to it. Turn the heat to medium and toast the rice slightly.
  2. Stir the rice in the pan, ensuring it does not burn, to achieve an al dente and well-cooked risotto. When the rice grains have developed a glossy appearance and the white core has disappeared, it is ready to begin cooking.
  3. Begin by adding vegetable broth, followed by the asparagus sauce. Allow the mixture to simmer for approximately 20 minutes, adding broth as needed to prevent it from drying out.
  4. Once the risotto is fully cooked, incorporate cream, turn off the heat, and add butter and Parmesan cheese. Stir the risotto thoroughly to ensure even distribution of the ingredients. Allow the risotto to rest for a minute before serving.

Note: Plate the risotto on a deep plate and garnish with a small portion of asparagus.

asparagus risottoMore photos of the risotto on our Instagram page

Grape cake

Torta con L’Uva

Dolce, Personal Chef, Seasonal, Truffle Lunch

Ingredients:

  • 2 eggs
  • 7 Tbsp. Sugar (175 gr)
  • 7 Tbsp. Milk (140 gr)
  • 7 Tbsp. Sunflower oil (100g)
  • 16 Tbsp. Flour “00” (400 gr)
  • 1/2 baking powder (8 g)
  • Nuts (100 gr)
  • Black Grapes (500 gr)

Method:

  1. Carefully combine all ingredients in a bowl. Transfer the mixture to a baking sheet lined with parchment paper.
  2. Preheat the oven to 180°C (356°F). Bake the cake for 30 minutes.
  3. During the last 15 minutes of baking, brush the cake with sunflower oil and sprinkle the top with granulated sugar. Continue baking until the cake is fully cooked. Serve the cake with powdered sugar.

 

ENJOY 🙂

If you missed our best photos from this article you can find them here on the Cooking Family Instagram

sportellina-tuscan-traditional-easter-cake

La Sportellina – a Tuscan traditional Easter cake

News, Personal Chef, Seasonal, , , , , , , , , , , , ,

In Tuscany, we have a unique sweet tradition called “la Sportellina” or “schiacciata di Pasqua” (literally, the Easter squashed bread). It may sound funny for a cake that doesn’t look squashed at all, but the name actually comes from the large number of eggs that need to be cracked (squashed) into the batter.

The countryside Easter traditions

During the old days, Lent was a time of fasting and repentance, so people relied on homemade products. This was a common and deeply religious tradition, especially in the countryside. Most peasant families’ meals consisted of soups, polenta, vegetables from their own farm, or homemade bread and freshly picked herbs. Occasionally, adding a pilchard in oil was a special treat that not everyone could afford. So, it’s no wonder that on Easter, people indulged in abundant dishes and plenty of meat, generously accompanied by a glass or two of good wine!

Food preparations typically began during Holy Week before Easter. Everything had to be produced in large quantities to be shared with families and neighbors as a symbol of gratitude and celebration.

As a child, I remember a lively atmosphere in our town. People would go up and down the alleys from early morning until sunset. I could sense Easter approaching just by catching a whiff of the air. Suddenly, I was enveloped in the delightful aroma of aniseed and freshly baked cake, coming from the town’s wood-fired oven. Back then, household appliances were rare, and not everyone could afford an oven. So, during the Easter rush, when women prepared numerous oven-baked goods, they would rush up and down the main street with their kneaded doughs, waiting for their turn to use the town’s oven. Imagine the oven working tirelessly day and night, baking hundreds of pans of traditional delicacies, which they would then take back home. The smell that filled the air back then was simply amazing!

tuscan-traditional-easter-cake

The origins of Sportellina cake

The connection between ancient traditions and nature is always interesting, as nothing is random. At the beginning of spring, hens laid more eggs than usual, which had to be consumed quickly due to the lack of modern storage methods. Therefore, this Easter cake, like many other seasonal cakes and dishes, was a good way to use up a significant number of eggs.

As I mentioned, our mother and grandmothers prepared this traditional cake in large quantities during Holy Week. The recipe required considerable effort and patience, given the lengthy rising and baking times. Imagine kneading and allowing the dough to rise repeatedly for at least five times before baking! This meticulous process was another reason for making the cake in large quantities. Some pieces were wrapped and given to family guests and neighbors, others were offered to the church for serving after Holy Mass on Easter Day, and a few were left for breakfast the following day.

In our fast-paced modern world, it’s challenging to imagine the time and effort required for such a lengthy and delicate preparation. Fortunately, you can easily find it at the supermarket. However, there’s something special about the experience of dipping your hands into the dough and kneading it. It’s a moment of peace and reflection, allowing your thoughts to flow freely. The sweet aroma of aniseed and mint liqueur fills your nostrils, transporting you back to your childhood. Regardless of the time it takes, the reward is immense when you see that precious piece of dough rise and turn golden brown, a testament to your dedication to preserving the tradition.

 

The Sportellina Recipe:

  • 1.5 kg 00 flour
  • 50 g brewer’s yeast
  • 150 ml milk
  • 7 eggs (plus 1 for brushing the surface)
  • 450 g sugar
  • 110 g extra virgin olive oil
  • 50 grams of butter
  • 50 grams of mint liqueur
  • 50 grams of maraschino
  • 15 grams of aniseed
  • 1 orange (zest and juice)

 

Method:

  1. First, dissolve the brewer’s yeast in the warm milk. Gradually add about 300-400 grams of flour and mix until well incorporated. Knead the dough into a ball and let it rest in a bowl for about 2 hours.
  2. After two hours, mix in 3 eggs, 150 grams of sugar, 40 grams of olive oil, and another 400 grams of flour. Let it rest again in a warm place until it doubles in volume (this time, it will take about three hours).
  3. For the third step, add in 2 eggs, 150 grams of sugar, 40 grams of olive oil, 25 grams of mint liqueur, 25 grams of maraschino, and another 400 grams of flour. Knead the dough again until all ingredients are well combined and let it rest for another 3 hours.
  4. Finally, mix in the remaining ingredients and knead the dough for a while. Then, let it rest for another 3 hours. Divide the batter into three equal parts and place them in the baking molds (we use the same molds as for Panettone). Cover the molds with a warm cloth and let them rise for 4-5 hours, or until they double in volume.
  5. Brush the top of the cakes with beaten egg and bake them in a preheated oven at 180°C for about 50 minutes, or until the surface turns brown. Let them cool in the oven for 10 more minutes before removing them.

 

(Note) You can store the cakes in a plastic bag in a cool, dry place for up to one week. This way, you can bake more pieces and offer them as an Easter gift to family and friends, or enjoy them as a delicious breakfast for a whole week! Enjoy!

tuscan-traditional-easter-cake-buona-pasqua

tuscan raw ham hanging

Tuscan Ham & Childhood Memories

News, Seasonal, , , , , , , , , , , ,

As I’m cozying up by the fireplace, sipping my coffee, and watching delicate snowflakes twirl in the air, I can’t help but drift back to my childhood in the countryside, surrounded by my family.

A COMMUNITY EVENT AND A FAMILY FEAST

Late winter was usually a time of rest, a pause in nature’s cycle when there wasn’t much to do in the fields. The sun often hid behind thick clouds, and the animals on the farm preferred to stay warm inside their stables.

It seems our Tuscan ancestors decided that this was the perfect time for domestic slaughtering. The cold weather was ideal for preserving the huge amounts of meat that needed to be handled during the butchering. Back then, there weren’t any big storage cellars like we have today.

In the countryside, money wasn’t the main focus. Farmers worked hard every day to make ends meet. Everything was considered a valuable resource, and the community spirit was strong. Neighbors were often the only people farmers could rely on, besides their families. Their help and hard work were always appreciated with food, wine, and a helping hand when needed.

Pig slaughtering was a big deal for the community and a family feast, so everyone pitched in. After a long day of hard work, they looked forward to an evening of delicious pork treats and good wine. Back then, it was the only time of year when people could afford to indulge in such a large amount of meat.

Pork meat has always been a valuable part of our culinary tradition because nothing was ever wasted. Even the smallest, seemingly insignificant pieces were used. Once the butcher processed it, it became a year’s supply for the farming families and a valuable trade item for other goods or services.

Following nature’s lead, our farmers had a specific way of using the products from their animals. Everything was based on the seasons, so the first things eaten were those that needed less time to prepare and age, like jowl and pork belly.

Prosciutto crudo Toscano

In Tuscany, we have a fantastic selection of cured meats and pork products, but when we think of pork, the first thing that comes to mind is the PDO Tuscan Raw Ham (Prosciutto Crudo Toscano DOP). This dry-cured, aged raw ham, probably the best in the world, is the star of the Tuscan area, along with the Tuscan Pecorino Cheese and the Chianti Wine. It’s so special that in the past, it was the last pork product to be eaten, often up to a year later. It was the finest delicacy that farmers had, and they were often proud of it. I remember that “opening” the Prosciutto was a joyful occasion, a feast where friends and family gathered to share this delicacy, but only because the first part of the hind leg had a bit too much fat around, before revealing the finest savory, chewy bites of pure raw ham; however, that doesn’t mean it was less delicious.

The Tuscan Raw Ham comes from the oldest traditions and should not be confused with the similar Raw Ham of Parma and San Daniele. The process might seem similar, but the unique flavor and the characteristic chewy, almost buttery, and salty taste of the Tuscan PDO Raw Ham are unmistakable. This is because it’s directly related to the local aromatics, customs, and the geographical area’s temperatures and humidity.

The Tuscan Raw Ham gets its typical salty taste from… well, salt, of course. But it’s not just about how much salt you use; it’s about the aging time and the specific environment with the right level of humidity where the meat is held and cured. It’s a long-standing tradition that dates back to Medieval times, when farmers used to cure the hind legs with fennel seeds that grew wild along the Tuscan fields, along with sea salt to preserve the meat. More recently, juniper, garlic, and pepper have been added to the recipe, but it still depends on each family’s tradition and customs that have been passed down through generations.

As I recall, my father used to rub pork hind legs with a garlic and pepper pomade and let them sit on a wooden table for up to 20 days. Then, he’d wash the pomade away with vinegar and, after drying it thoroughly, rub the rind-less part again with lots of salt and pepper to keep flies from eating the meat.

In our family, we didn’t waste anything, so when the ham was gone, we used the bones to flavor simpler peasant dishes like Tuscan bread soup or bean soup. But before that, my mother always saved some marrow in a small jar in the fridge. She called it her secret medicine for when my brothers and I came home with bumps and bruises—a little scrub on the spot, and the pain would disappear. Now you might find that funny, but back then, it was a miracle medicine!

And speaking of childhood memories, the best “merenda” (snack) we ever had as kids, and that we’re still obsessed with today, was the famous “panino col pane sciabo e prosciutto” (the Tuscan unsalted white bread and raw ham sandwich). Yes, because nothing is random: the typical Tuscan unsalted white bread pairs perfectly with the salty Tuscan Raw Ham, bringing out the best in this fine cured meat. Picture eating a salted piece of bread with an even saltier piece of raw ham, or aged Pecorino cheese… it’s all been figured out since ages, no wonder our culinary matches are known worldwide!

fireplace

Baby it’s cold outside!

Personal Chef, Seasonal, , , , , , ,

The renowned Florentine bread soup

In the past, a chilly winter day in the countryside was often warmed up by a comforting pot of hot vegetable soup, known as ‘ribollita’ or ‘minestra di pane’ (bread soup). This traditional peasant dish, with its deep roots in the Middle Ages, was typically prepared in large batches on Fridays to be enjoyed over the weekend. The reason behind this practice was twofold: it ensured that the soup could be stored and consumed for several days, providing sustenance for the entire family. Moreover, the soup turned out even more flavorful the day after it was made. Initially, the soup was served with chunks of white Tuscan bread, which were dipped into it, creating the delightful combination of ‘minestra di pane’ (bread soup). The leftovers were then re-boiled the following day, resulting in the hearty ‘ribollita’ (re-boiled bread soup).

Ingredients: Cavolo nero

To this day, Tuscan bread soup remains the ideal way to keep warm during the cold season while simultaneously providing a nutritious boost of vegetables. Its perfect blend of carbohydrates, legumes, and vegetables makes it a wholesome choice.

 

The star of this dish, and the one that truly defines its character, is the Tuscan kale, also known as lancinato kale. It is an essential ingredient for an authentic taste, and it is impossible to call it ‘ribollita’ without it. We refer to it as ‘cavolo nero’ (translated as black cabbage), and it is a leafy, dark-green type of cabbage that is packed with over 50% of the recommended daily allowance of vitamins A, C, and K. It is also rich in antioxidants and other essential nutrients, and it is remarkably low in calories. This super ingredient can be found in every Tuscan farmer’s orchard from November through spring. It is best enjoyed freshly picked during the cold season.

The recipe for Tuscan bread soup is a family heirloom that has been passed down through generations. It’s a simple yet delicious dish that fills your home with the comforting aroma of a special dinner.

 

Ingredients:

  • Extra virgin olive oil, freshly cold-pressed
  • 300 grams of dry borlotti beans
  • 400 grams of Tuscan kale
  • 3 carrots
  • 3 potatoes
  • 1 red onion
  • 1 celery stalk
  • 1 twig of thyme
  • 2 cloves of garlic
  • 2 thick slices of Tuscan prosciutto pork ham

Method:

  1. In a large pot, heat a generous amount of extra virgin olive oil over a low flame. Add the prosciutto, carrots, celery, and chopped onion. Cover the pot and stir-fry for about 5 minutes. Add the remaining vegetables, thyme, and beans.
  2. Make sure the vegetables are cut into small pieces to ensure a thick but not chunky soup. Pour in at least 1 liter of hot water and 3 four-fingered pinches of salt. Lower the flame and cook for at least 90 minutes, covered with a lid.
  3. Serve the soup piping hot, garnished with freshly ground pepper and chunks of Tuscan white bread. The bread can be dipped into the soup, lightly rubbed with garlic, and generously sprinkled with Tuscan extra virgin olive oil.

 

(Note) For the best flavor, let the soup sit in the refrigerator for a night. This allows the flavors to meld together beautifully. The next day, simply bring the entire pot to a boil and enjoy a warm bowl of delicious ribollita.

 

This Tuscan basic recipe is perfect for the season. Why not try it out and impress your family with a new and nutritious dish that will warm your winter holidays?

Oh, and remember: when you visit Italy during the summer months, don’t ask for a pot of ribollita. It’s definitely off season! Have a holly jolly winter everyone!

tuscan-extravirgin-olive-oil-fresh

L’Olio Novo

Nature, News, Seasonal, , , , , , , ,

The Tuscan Green Gold, from the farm to the fork!

Autumn isn’t just about roasting chestnuts and sipping red wine by the fireplace. There’s hardly any time to relax when you’re living in the Tuscan countryside. Therefore, between the golden autumn leaves and the first winter chill, as soon as we’re done with the vine harvest, we have to get our strength back and be ready for a new adventure: the olive harvest.

Like every other year, we start picking olives on our farm around mid-October, just before the first chills of November. Back in the day, they used to wait for the olives to be fully mature before harvesting. But the weather wasn’t always kind to crops in late autumn, so to protect them from the early frosts, people have traditionally developed the custom we all know today: harvesting olives earlier, even before they are fully ripe.

This tradition has become an essential part of our territory’s reputation worldwide, for it has given us a unique product of excellence: “l’olio novo” toscano (the freshly pressed Tuscan extravirgin olive oil). Unique because the chemical and organoleptic characteristics of the PDO extravirgin olive oil are mostly related to the climate of the growth area, which directly influences the quality of the phenols, the bitterness, and the sharpness of the taste.

The Harvest

Harvesting olives before they’re fully ripe means they still have a high level of polyphenols. Unfortunately, this means we get less product, but it’s exactly what we need to achieve that perfect balance of intense bitterness and peppery flavor, which is so characteristic of Tuscan extra virgin olive oil. However, the final taste of each batch also depends on many other factors, so it’s almost impossible to have two different productions with the same taste, even in the same area.

As we always do on our farm, harvesting olives is a group activity. Farming is a physically demanding job, and any extra help is always appreciated. Traditionally, during the olive harvest, close relatives, friends, or neighbors from nearby farms come together to lend a hand and spend some fun days outdoors, enjoying the stunning views of the Tuscan hills. Everyone participates in the process, and seeing the product go from the olive grove to the table is really exciting for everyone.

The day begins very early in the morning, with rubber boots, comfortable clothes, and tools of the trade, we head to our small olive grove and start picking up the little green-purple gems. What we love most is that our family still keeps the tradition alive from past generations, and a day of hard work on the farm can easily turn into a celebration. We love to bring back the old-fashioned charm of country living, just like our grandparents used to: understanding the importance of this moment, giving thanks for nature’s abundance, and sharing the sweat, laughter, food, and wine until the work is done! My grandfathers used to tell me about their harvest gatherings, describing those moments as the most important in a farmer’s life, for socializing and opening up with others about everyday life, by sharing the labor and the table.

Finally, the new oil

Our day of harvesting olives ends only after the sun sets, always following nature’s rhythm. Depending on how big the olive grove is, it might take anywhere from a day to a whole week to finish. So, we store the harvested pods in plastic boxes or on the cool, well-ventilated floor until we can take them to the mill for pressing, but usually not longer than 48 hours.

There are many mills around here. We take our harvest to a very old mill nearby that uses the traditional “cold pressing” method to get the best extra virgin olive oil. First, we wash the olives in cold water to remove as many leaves as possible. Then, we crush them together with a giant millstone and store them in stainless steel tins.

This is what we actually call “l’olio novo” (the new oil) here in Tuscany! It’s the freshly squeezed, unstrained, and unprocessed extra virgin olive oil that we all love. It’s the main ingredient in all our traditional dishes and is recommended worldwide for its well-known health benefits. We use it in our kitchens every day: drizzled fresh over a salad, cooked in most dishes, sometimes as a healthy substitute for butter in cakes, and even in the pan for a healthier fry. However, when it comes to the fruity; peppery; pungent freshly squeezed olive oil, the first thing that comes to mind is “la fettunta” (the greasy slice). This is Tuscany’s traditional, healthiest, and simplest dish ever, and the best way to enjoy the amazing flavor of “the new oil.”

As soon as we bring the “green gold” back home, we just can’t help but drizzle it on a piece of Tuscan toasted white bread (unsalted). Just like that, nothing else added, no other confusing ingredients, just our own special extra virgin olive oil… and this is when we realize that all the sweat and hard work was all worth it!

Truffles – When, What, How?

Nature, News, Seasonal, , , , , , , , , , ,

Everything you need to know about these earthy fragranced and pungent tasting gems!

October is a wonderful time to enjoy the bounty of olives and chestnuts, perfect for cozy comfort food, warm socks, and a hot drink by the fireplace.

But, of course, the best part is the chance to hunt for truffles, especially the prized white truffle! If you’re not into cozy socks and hot drinks, truffle hunting can be quite a challenge!

WHEN IS THE BEST TIME TO TRUFFLE HUNT?

There’s no set “truffle season,” just a matter of following nature’s rhythms and knowing where to look and what to search for throughout the year. If you’re interested, keep reading as we’ll share everything you need to know about truffles!

As we mentioned, following nature’s course is a great starting point when you’re looking for truffles. First, you need to know what you’re searching for! Truffles are related to common mushrooms, actually a type of underground fungus called an Ascomycete, and specifically one of the Tuber species. They grow in partnerships with some trees’ roots, spreading their spores mainly through animals that enjoy truffles, mushrooms, and other fungi. Truffles grow independently, and you’ll rarely find more than one in a single hole, but you might find others near the same tree. Another interesting fact is that truffles actually start growing about five months before you find them, so if you discover one in winter, it likely formed during the summer. However, truffles ripen at different times, and their scent only lasts for about eight hours, and they only “live” for 10-15 days before decomposing into organic matter for small animals and the soil.

WHAT SHOULD YOU BE LOOKING FOR?

There are mainly two types of truffles, divided into other categories: the black truffle and the white truffle. Here in Tuscany, we have the black ‘summer’ truffle (Tuber aestivum) or ‘scorzone,’ which has a hard skin and dark aromatic flesh; you can find this one just under the surface of the ground. We harvest the black summer truffle from the beginning of June until late autumn, and it has a very appreciated culinary value, along with the burgundy black truffle (Tuber uncinatum), which is part of the same species but is called this way for its crocheted-like skin. Starting from late September, there is a transition period, in which it’s likely we find the last of black truffles, as well as the first ripe white ones. This marks the beginning of the eagerly awaited white truffle period, which lasts until mid-January more or less.

The white truffle (Tuber Magnatum) can be found under the roots of oaks, hazels, poplar, or beeches and has a pale light brown flesh with white marbling. It grows deeper into the ground than the black one (up to 160 ft. underground), which makes it more difficult to find. Since it forms during summer, when there is less (to none) humidity in the soil, white truffle originates deeper underground, taking advantage of the more humid part of it. A less known and used type is a kind of ‘wild’ truffle called Tuber Macrosporum, which has a strong garlic taste and is hardly ever used in the kitchen.

white-truffle-hand

For Luigi’s dogs, truffle hunting is more of a fun adventure than a job, as some might imagine. They love sniffing around the woods, hoping to find those delicious truffles, because they know there’s a tasty reward waiting for them if they do, and they’re also quite greedy for those earthy treats! Who wouldn’t be?

But what really matters is the bond between the dog and his owner. You can’t just buy or rent a trained dog and expect him to do all the work for you! You need to know, feel, and love your dog to understand his behavior and read his body language. Otherwise, you might end up with your truffles eaten by the dog before you know it, or even worse: no truffles at all!

One last thing to keep in mind is that, besides the dog, you’ll need a state license. Hunters get a special permit (which lets them search for truffles and mushrooms in any forest across Italy) by taking a special course. They learn about hunting, including the laws, how to guide, knowing the woods, and protecting the forest floor and undergrowth.

Now, we might have made that last part sound a bit daunting, but don’t worry! If you’re interested in hunting but don’t have the time to take a class and train your own dog while you’re on vacation in Italy, you can still join Luigi for a fun hunting trip in the Tuscan woods around Certaldo. You can even enjoy the bounty over a delicious four-course lunch at Cucina Giuseppina, where it’s all about great Chianti wine and homemade Tuscan treats.

truffle-dishes-tuscan-cooking

red-onion-certaldo

La Cipolla di Certaldo: the Sweet Red Onion of Certaldo

Nature, Personal Chef, Seasonal, Traditions, , , , , , ,

Back in the XIV century, Boccaccio, in one of his most famous stories from The Decameron (VI, 10), wrote about Certaldo.

This little story shows that Certaldo’s red onion has been known for ages, even before the middle ages! It’s a slow food product and a true treasure of our land, available in two types: Stantina, a round, purplish onion with juicy flesh that’s best enjoyed in the summer, and Vernina, a bright red and tangy onion that’s picked from late August through the winter and is a symbol of Certaldo.

“Certaldo, as you may have heard, is a castle of Val d’ Elsa situated in our county, which, however small it may be, was once inhabited by noblemenand men of substance; and thither, for that he found good pasture there, one of the friars of the order of St. Anthony was long used to resort once a year, to get in the alms bestowed by simpletons upon him and his brethren. His name was Fra Cipolla (Friar Onion) and he was gladly seen there, doubtless due as much to his name, as to other reasons, for thus it was known that the soil of those fields produces onions, that are famous throughout all Tuscany.”

But even before Giovanni Boccaccio’s Friar Onion, the red onion had already become a symbol of the hardworking, strong, and sweet nature of Certaldo’s people, and it was even on the town’s flag. It was on the white side of the two-tier shield, with the motto: “By nature, I am strong yet sweet, and everyone here likes me, those who work and those who sit.” But in 1633, the Priors in charge of the town thought the crest wasn’t good enough for their town and changed it to a lion. Later, in the XIX century, the city council brought back the original crest, which you can still see on our town’s flag today.

When you’re in Certaldo, don’t be surprised if you don’t see onions everywhere! Most farmers here grow their own for family use or to sell locally. If you’re on the hunt for these sweet red gems, your best bet is the weekly local markets on Wednesday and Saturday, or the annual Sagra della Cipolla (The Onions’ Festival).

We’re so proud of our local onions that we celebrate them every year with a week-long festival! It’s held in the old town of Certaldo Alto, usually around the end of August, when our farmers harvest the Vernina type. Every evening, we get together to enjoy the delicious dishes made with red onions, using recipes passed down through generations. People from all over come together, including locals, visitors, and even tourists, to feast on the good food and plenty of Chianti wine from our local producers, all while enjoying theater plays or themed performances.

The main goal of this event is to keep the old recipes and traditions alive, but we also want to look to the future. So, on the second-last day, the festival features a food competition between the town’s quarters, which is a preview of The Calambur: Certaldo’s medieval Palio, which will happen a few weeks later. Each quarter has to come up with a new and creative dish made with red onions. A committee of the public gets to taste and vote on the best recipe. This year’s competition is extra special because they have to create a dessert! I bet you’ve never thought of onions for dessert, but you might be surprised by the genius recipes and flavor combinations these people have come up with over the years.

They’ve evolved from simply making the usual soup, pasta, and meat dishes with red onions to pickling, canning, making jam and jelly, adding them to chutneys, sweet and salted pies, and even using them as homeopathic medicine, inspired by ancient remedies passed down from our grand-grand-parents. In essence, if you’re a big fan of red onions like we are, you can create almost anything with them!

At the Cooking School, we’re known for our most famous, handmade Red Onion Jam. It’s a family tradition that has been passed down through generations. It has a delightful bitter-sweet flavor and goes wonderfully with local pecorino cheese and salami, or Giuseppina’s special pork tenderloin in an old-style dry marinade… absolutely delicious!

If all this onion talk has captured your interest and you’re thinking of trying onions for dessert, here’s a special treat for you. This was created and shared by Carina, a friend of mine, and I’m telling you: if you’re into onions, you absolutely have to try this one!

Did we get you mouth-watering yet? Then here’s the recipe for you!

Red wine caramelized onions & dark chocolate tartlets

Slice up 2-3 sweet red onions from Certaldo and toss them into a pan with a tiny bit of unsalted butter and about 2-3 tablespoons of muscovado brown sugar. Cook it gently on low heat until it’s soft but not browned. Then, pour in a glass of Chianti red wine, sprinkle in a pinch of ground cinnamon, ground cloves, a few cardamom seeds, and some pink pepper granules (or any other spices you like). Let the liquid simmer until it’s mostly gone and the alcohol evaporates. Finally, add a chunk of dark chocolate. Let it sit for a bit, then get ready to make your favorite shortcrust pastry. The one I used had a nice rustic flavor because I mixed in half of the plain white flour with buckwheat flour. Blind-bake your pastry in a preheated oven, let it cool down before taking it out of the pan, and fill each pastry case with the caramelized onions. Sprinkle some chopped walnuts on top and finish with goat cheese crème fraîche or vanilla ice cream. Enjoy!

Have you tried this recipe? Share your photos in the comments below and tell us what you think!

baccelli-fava-beans-pecorino

B – for Baccelli & Pecorino

Nature, News, Seasonal, , , , , , , , ,

With springtime here, everyone’s heading out into the countryside to soak up the sun and enjoy nature’s beauty. I remember when I was a kid, we’d dive into the fields of favas, munching on the pods and hoping the farmers wouldn’t notice we’d eaten their harvest. You see, fava beans were a precious treat for the farmers’ cattle, but if you picked them early in the season, you could have a feast for yourself too!

I’m talking about “vicia faba,” an ancient member of the pea family. These fava beans, also known as broath beans or “baccelli” in Tuscany, are pale green with a nutty flavor. They grow from late March through the beginning of May.

TUSCAN FOOD IS A FAVE

It’s been shown that they’ve been farmed since ancient times and have played a significant role in the culture of many countries. They were especially popular in ancient Rome, so much so that one of the most important noble families took their surname, “i Fabi,” from these pulses. Even traces have been found in Troy, Crete, and some say in ancient Greece, where eating them was even forbidden because the black stains on the pods were linked to death. However, their nutritional value has been rediscovered recently, as fava beans went from being a luxury for the wealthy to being used for common people and cattle. Over the years, many legends have surrounded these pulses, but the most interesting one that still circulates here is the legend of the “leap pod.” It’s said that on a leap year, the fava beans inside the pods grow backward. So, if you shell one, you’ll find the beans attached downward, not to the stem. It’s just a funny legend, but you know what they say, passing down myths and legends keeps a nation’s story alive. It can be a lot of fun spending a lazy Sunday afternoon shelling pods to see who finds the backward beans on a leap year!

baccelli-fava-broath-beans

Back in the day, those tender, freshly picked favas were a fantastic treat for a springtime picnic! In Tuscany, we love them raw, simply seasoned with a pinch of salt and drizzled with extra virgin olive oil, paired with our beloved Tuscan Pecorino DOP cheese. It’s the perfect snack to accompany a glass of Chianti wine.

We’re so fond of them that we even have a one-day festival called “la baccellata” in Certaldo Alto, held on April 25th this year. It helps the local church of San Tommaso e Prospero raise funds for the procession of Beata Giulia in September. On “baccellata” day, people come together to enjoy these delicious fresh pods with Pecorino Marzolino cheese, a Tuscan fresh Pecorino that hasn’t been seasoned, which beautifully blends with the favas, creating a unique delight for all your senses.

Another delightful way to enjoy your favas raw is to make a simple and quick, yet very nutritious pesto. All you need are 250g of fresh shelled fava beans, a clove of garlic, 80g of Pecorino cheese, a pinch of salt, and some fresh basil leaves if you like. Just blend everything together and then add a splash of Tuscan extra virgin olive oil to achieve a creamy texture. You can savor this delight on toasted bread (crostini), as a side dish for meat or fish, or make a generous portion of pasta: boil it until “al dente” and stir-fry everything for one minute, adding just a drop of the boiling water if needed. Feel free to get creative and add some pine nuts or almonds to the mixture, or simply sprinkle them on top of the dish, slightly toasted.

pesto-baccelii-favas-pecorino

Our last tip: when you’re picking up favas at the market, if you’re in Tuscany, just ask for baccelli. If you’re hoping to enjoy them raw, look for tender, firm pods with a velvety fuzz and small, thin-skinned beans inside. Otherwise, you’ll need to peel the skin off, which means boiling them for a few minutes.

I guess all that’s left to say is buona baccellata! Happy favas day!

Enjoy!