In Tuscany, we have a unique sweet tradition called “la Sportellina” or “schiacciata di Pasqua” (literally, the Easter squashed bread). It may sound funny for a cake that doesn’t look squashed at all, but the name actually comes from the large number of eggs that need to be cracked (squashed) into the batter.
The countryside Easter traditions
During the old days, Lent was a time of fasting and repentance, so people relied on homemade products. This was a common and deeply religious tradition, especially in the countryside. Most peasant families’ meals consisted of soups, polenta, vegetables from their own farm, or homemade bread and freshly picked herbs. Occasionally, adding a pilchard in oil was a special treat that not everyone could afford. So, it’s no wonder that on Easter, people indulged in abundant dishes and plenty of meat, generously accompanied by a glass or two of good wine!
Food preparations typically began during Holy Week before Easter. Everything had to be produced in large quantities to be shared with families and neighbors as a symbol of gratitude and celebration.
As a child, I remember a lively atmosphere in our town. People would go up and down the alleys from early morning until sunset. I could sense Easter approaching just by catching a whiff of the air. Suddenly, I was enveloped in the delightful aroma of aniseed and freshly baked cake, coming from the town’s wood-fired oven. Back then, household appliances were rare, and not everyone could afford an oven. So, during the Easter rush, when women prepared numerous oven-baked goods, they would rush up and down the main street with their kneaded doughs, waiting for their turn to use the town’s oven. Imagine the oven working tirelessly day and night, baking hundreds of pans of traditional delicacies, which they would then take back home. The smell that filled the air back then was simply amazing!
The origins of Sportellina cake
The connection between ancient traditions and nature is always interesting, as nothing is random. At the beginning of spring, hens laid more eggs than usual, which had to be consumed quickly due to the lack of modern storage methods. Therefore, this Easter cake, like many other seasonal cakes and dishes, was a good way to use up a significant number of eggs.
As I mentioned, our mother and grandmothers prepared this traditional cake in large quantities during Holy Week. The recipe required considerable effort and patience, given the lengthy rising and baking times. Imagine kneading and allowing the dough to rise repeatedly for at least five times before baking! This meticulous process was another reason for making the cake in large quantities. Some pieces were wrapped and given to family guests and neighbors, others were offered to the church for serving after Holy Mass on Easter Day, and a few were left for breakfast the following day.
In our fast-paced modern world, it’s challenging to imagine the time and effort required for such a lengthy and delicate preparation. Fortunately, you can easily find it at the supermarket. However, there’s something special about the experience of dipping your hands into the dough and kneading it. It’s a moment of peace and reflection, allowing your thoughts to flow freely. The sweet aroma of aniseed and mint liqueur fills your nostrils, transporting you back to your childhood. Regardless of the time it takes, the reward is immense when you see that precious piece of dough rise and turn golden brown, a testament to your dedication to preserving the tradition.
The Sportellina Recipe:
- 1.5 kg 00 flour
- 50 g brewer’s yeast
- 150 ml milk
- 7 eggs (plus 1 for brushing the surface)
- 450 g sugar
- 110 g extra virgin olive oil
- 50 grams of butter
- 50 grams of mint liqueur
- 50 grams of maraschino
- 15 grams of aniseed
- 1 orange (zest and juice)
Method:
- First, dissolve the brewer’s yeast in the warm milk. Gradually add about 300-400 grams of flour and mix until well incorporated. Knead the dough into a ball and let it rest in a bowl for about 2 hours.
- After two hours, mix in 3 eggs, 150 grams of sugar, 40 grams of olive oil, and another 400 grams of flour. Let it rest again in a warm place until it doubles in volume (this time, it will take about three hours).
- For the third step, add in 2 eggs, 150 grams of sugar, 40 grams of olive oil, 25 grams of mint liqueur, 25 grams of maraschino, and another 400 grams of flour. Knead the dough again until all ingredients are well combined and let it rest for another 3 hours.
- Finally, mix in the remaining ingredients and knead the dough for a while. Then, let it rest for another 3 hours. Divide the batter into three equal parts and place them in the baking molds (we use the same molds as for Panettone). Cover the molds with a warm cloth and let them rise for 4-5 hours, or until they double in volume.
- Brush the top of the cakes with beaten egg and bake them in a preheated oven at 180°C for about 50 minutes, or until the surface turns brown. Let them cool in the oven for 10 more minutes before removing them.
(Note) You can store the cakes in a plastic bag in a cool, dry place for up to one week. This way, you can bake more pieces and offer them as an Easter gift to family and friends, or enjoy them as a delicious breakfast for a whole week! Enjoy!
