#recipe

Aglio, Olio & Peperoncino, the Trinity of Midnight Spaghetti.

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When I think of pasta, spaghetti is the first thing that comes to mind. And when I think of spaghetti, tomato sauce is the first thing that comes to mind. But then, I think of Aglio Olio e Peperoncino. It’s a versatile recipe that can be made for any occasion. It’s the pasta that feeds everyone and makes everyone happy. And most importantly, it’s the pasta that you can make when your pantry is empty.

If you ask any Italian about this pasta, they’ll likely recall memories of an unexpected visit and an improvised meal. They might remember a late-night “spaghettata” after a hangout with friends or the everyday pasta that they make when they don’t have time or don’t want to cook anything too sophisticated.

When your pantry is empty and your fridge is lonely, you still have a bottle of olive oil, a clove of garlic that you’ve forgotten somewhere, some dried chili pepper or powder, and of course, spaghetti!

Like any simple recipe, the quality of the ingredients and the quality of execution are essential. Here, we’re talking about extra virgin olive oil and pasta al dente.

Ingredients for 4 people:

  • 6 tablespoons olive oil
  • 2 cloves of garlic
  • 1 chili pepper
  • 400g spaghetti

Method(watch the video):

  1. In a pan, warm up the oil along with the crushed cloves of garlic and the chili pepper to taste. Just before the garlic turns brown, turn off the heat to avoid a bitter taste.
  2. In a large pot of boiling water, add a handful of salt and cook the spaghetti. Strain the pasta one minute before the time indicated on the package. Then, add the pasta to the pan with the hot olive oil and sauté for a minute. Add a cup of the pasta water as the sauce reduces slightly.
  3. There are various versions and opinions on the final garnish. Remember, this is a pasta made with what you have at home, so feel free to add fresh parsley or Parmesan cheese on top, to your taste.

An honorable mention goes to the spicy mix made in Tuscany by a friend. Simply add two teaspoons of this dry mix to the oil, and the job is done. We tried it last weekend, and it was very surprising and hot!

Buon Appetito!

Panzanella – Traditional Tuscan Bread Salad

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Ingredients for 6 people:

  • 600 grams of two-day-old Tuscan bread
  • 6 ripe but firm tomatoes
  • 1 red onion
  • 1 cucumber of your preferred variety
  • A handful of basil leaves
  • 6 tablespoons of red wine vinegar
  • 3 four-finger pinches of salt

(Note) The key to making a delicious Panzanella lies in knowing how to soak the bread, using good extra virgin olive oil, and excellent vinegar. But if you follow my instructions, you’ll all become master Panzanella makers!

Method:

  1. On the table in front of you, arrange the following items from left to right (if you’re right-handed, do the opposite): the old bread cut into slices about one finger thick, a basin filled with cold water, and an empty salad bowl.
  2. Soak each slice of bread in the cold water for about 5 seconds, then squeeze out all the excess water using your hands. Next, break the soaked bread into large chunks and place them in the salad bowl.
  3. The bread should be damp but not soggy. If you leave it in the water for too long, it will become a pulp that won’t blend well with the fresh vegetables.
  4. Now, you’ve done most of the work! Cut the tomatoes into thumb-sized pieces, slice the onion into thin rings, break the basil leaves with your fingers, peel and slice the cucumber into thin round slices. Finally, add the seasoning: olive oil, salt, and vinegar.
  5. Mix the ingredients gently with your hands to avoid breaking down the texture. Let the Panzanella cool in the refrigerator for at least half an hour before serving.

Farmers used to make this dish during the harvest season to refresh themselves. It was often brought directly to the fields by their wives, saving time by not having to return home for lunch. Originally, it was a simple dish, often accompanied by diluted wine. It was a refreshing and light meal that quenched thirst without being heavy. The recipe has a long history, dating back to 700 years ago when Giovanni Boccaccio, a poet from our town, referred to it as “Pan lavato,” or “washed bread.” Tomatoes were added to the dish after the discovery of the New World. The name seems to be a combination of “pane,” meaning bread, and “alzanella,” an old word for a large salad bowl.

 

fireplace

Baby it’s cold outside!

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The renowned Florentine bread soup

In the past, a chilly winter day in the countryside was often warmed up by a comforting pot of hot vegetable soup, known as ‘ribollita’ or ‘minestra di pane’ (bread soup). This traditional peasant dish, with its deep roots in the Middle Ages, was typically prepared in large batches on Fridays to be enjoyed over the weekend. The reason behind this practice was twofold: it ensured that the soup could be stored and consumed for several days, providing sustenance for the entire family. Moreover, the soup turned out even more flavorful the day after it was made. Initially, the soup was served with chunks of white Tuscan bread, which were dipped into it, creating the delightful combination of ‘minestra di pane’ (bread soup). The leftovers were then re-boiled the following day, resulting in the hearty ‘ribollita’ (re-boiled bread soup).

Ingredients: Cavolo nero

To this day, Tuscan bread soup remains the ideal way to keep warm during the cold season while simultaneously providing a nutritious boost of vegetables. Its perfect blend of carbohydrates, legumes, and vegetables makes it a wholesome choice.

 

The star of this dish, and the one that truly defines its character, is the Tuscan kale, also known as lancinato kale. It is an essential ingredient for an authentic taste, and it is impossible to call it ‘ribollita’ without it. We refer to it as ‘cavolo nero’ (translated as black cabbage), and it is a leafy, dark-green type of cabbage that is packed with over 50% of the recommended daily allowance of vitamins A, C, and K. It is also rich in antioxidants and other essential nutrients, and it is remarkably low in calories. This super ingredient can be found in every Tuscan farmer’s orchard from November through spring. It is best enjoyed freshly picked during the cold season.

The recipe for Tuscan bread soup is a family heirloom that has been passed down through generations. It’s a simple yet delicious dish that fills your home with the comforting aroma of a special dinner.

 

Ingredients:

  • Extra virgin olive oil, freshly cold-pressed
  • 300 grams of dry borlotti beans
  • 400 grams of Tuscan kale
  • 3 carrots
  • 3 potatoes
  • 1 red onion
  • 1 celery stalk
  • 1 twig of thyme
  • 2 cloves of garlic
  • 2 thick slices of Tuscan prosciutto pork ham

Method:

  1. In a large pot, heat a generous amount of extra virgin olive oil over a low flame. Add the prosciutto, carrots, celery, and chopped onion. Cover the pot and stir-fry for about 5 minutes. Add the remaining vegetables, thyme, and beans.
  2. Make sure the vegetables are cut into small pieces to ensure a thick but not chunky soup. Pour in at least 1 liter of hot water and 3 four-fingered pinches of salt. Lower the flame and cook for at least 90 minutes, covered with a lid.
  3. Serve the soup piping hot, garnished with freshly ground pepper and chunks of Tuscan white bread. The bread can be dipped into the soup, lightly rubbed with garlic, and generously sprinkled with Tuscan extra virgin olive oil.

 

(Note) For the best flavor, let the soup sit in the refrigerator for a night. This allows the flavors to meld together beautifully. The next day, simply bring the entire pot to a boil and enjoy a warm bowl of delicious ribollita.

 

This Tuscan basic recipe is perfect for the season. Why not try it out and impress your family with a new and nutritious dish that will warm your winter holidays?

Oh, and remember: when you visit Italy during the summer months, don’t ask for a pot of ribollita. It’s definitely off season! Have a holly jolly winter everyone!

red-onion-certaldo

La Cipolla di Certaldo: the Sweet Red Onion of Certaldo

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Back in the XIV century, Boccaccio, in one of his most famous stories from The Decameron (VI, 10), wrote about Certaldo.

This little story shows that Certaldo’s red onion has been known for ages, even before the middle ages! It’s a slow food product and a true treasure of our land, available in two types: Stantina, a round, purplish onion with juicy flesh that’s best enjoyed in the summer, and Vernina, a bright red and tangy onion that’s picked from late August through the winter and is a symbol of Certaldo.

“Certaldo, as you may have heard, is a castle of Val d’ Elsa situated in our county, which, however small it may be, was once inhabited by noblemenand men of substance; and thither, for that he found good pasture there, one of the friars of the order of St. Anthony was long used to resort once a year, to get in the alms bestowed by simpletons upon him and his brethren. His name was Fra Cipolla (Friar Onion) and he was gladly seen there, doubtless due as much to his name, as to other reasons, for thus it was known that the soil of those fields produces onions, that are famous throughout all Tuscany.”

But even before Giovanni Boccaccio’s Friar Onion, the red onion had already become a symbol of the hardworking, strong, and sweet nature of Certaldo’s people, and it was even on the town’s flag. It was on the white side of the two-tier shield, with the motto: “By nature, I am strong yet sweet, and everyone here likes me, those who work and those who sit.” But in 1633, the Priors in charge of the town thought the crest wasn’t good enough for their town and changed it to a lion. Later, in the XIX century, the city council brought back the original crest, which you can still see on our town’s flag today.

When you’re in Certaldo, don’t be surprised if you don’t see onions everywhere! Most farmers here grow their own for family use or to sell locally. If you’re on the hunt for these sweet red gems, your best bet is the weekly local markets on Wednesday and Saturday, or the annual Sagra della Cipolla (The Onions’ Festival).

We’re so proud of our local onions that we celebrate them every year with a week-long festival! It’s held in the old town of Certaldo Alto, usually around the end of August, when our farmers harvest the Vernina type. Every evening, we get together to enjoy the delicious dishes made with red onions, using recipes passed down through generations. People from all over come together, including locals, visitors, and even tourists, to feast on the good food and plenty of Chianti wine from our local producers, all while enjoying theater plays or themed performances.

The main goal of this event is to keep the old recipes and traditions alive, but we also want to look to the future. So, on the second-last day, the festival features a food competition between the town’s quarters, which is a preview of The Calambur: Certaldo’s medieval Palio, which will happen a few weeks later. Each quarter has to come up with a new and creative dish made with red onions. A committee of the public gets to taste and vote on the best recipe. This year’s competition is extra special because they have to create a dessert! I bet you’ve never thought of onions for dessert, but you might be surprised by the genius recipes and flavor combinations these people have come up with over the years.

They’ve evolved from simply making the usual soup, pasta, and meat dishes with red onions to pickling, canning, making jam and jelly, adding them to chutneys, sweet and salted pies, and even using them as homeopathic medicine, inspired by ancient remedies passed down from our grand-grand-parents. In essence, if you’re a big fan of red onions like we are, you can create almost anything with them!

At the Cooking School, we’re known for our most famous, handmade Red Onion Jam. It’s a family tradition that has been passed down through generations. It has a delightful bitter-sweet flavor and goes wonderfully with local pecorino cheese and salami, or Giuseppina’s special pork tenderloin in an old-style dry marinade… absolutely delicious!

If all this onion talk has captured your interest and you’re thinking of trying onions for dessert, here’s a special treat for you. This was created and shared by Carina, a friend of mine, and I’m telling you: if you’re into onions, you absolutely have to try this one!

Did we get you mouth-watering yet? Then here’s the recipe for you!

Red wine caramelized onions & dark chocolate tartlets

Slice up 2-3 sweet red onions from Certaldo and toss them into a pan with a tiny bit of unsalted butter and about 2-3 tablespoons of muscovado brown sugar. Cook it gently on low heat until it’s soft but not browned. Then, pour in a glass of Chianti red wine, sprinkle in a pinch of ground cinnamon, ground cloves, a few cardamom seeds, and some pink pepper granules (or any other spices you like). Let the liquid simmer until it’s mostly gone and the alcohol evaporates. Finally, add a chunk of dark chocolate. Let it sit for a bit, then get ready to make your favorite shortcrust pastry. The one I used had a nice rustic flavor because I mixed in half of the plain white flour with buckwheat flour. Blind-bake your pastry in a preheated oven, let it cool down before taking it out of the pan, and fill each pastry case with the caramelized onions. Sprinkle some chopped walnuts on top and finish with goat cheese crème fraîche or vanilla ice cream. Enjoy!

Have you tried this recipe? Share your photos in the comments below and tell us what you think!

baccelli-fava-beans-pecorino

B – for Baccelli & Pecorino

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With springtime here, everyone’s heading out into the countryside to soak up the sun and enjoy nature’s beauty. I remember when I was a kid, we’d dive into the fields of favas, munching on the pods and hoping the farmers wouldn’t notice we’d eaten their harvest. You see, fava beans were a precious treat for the farmers’ cattle, but if you picked them early in the season, you could have a feast for yourself too!

I’m talking about “vicia faba,” an ancient member of the pea family. These fava beans, also known as broath beans or “baccelli” in Tuscany, are pale green with a nutty flavor. They grow from late March through the beginning of May.

TUSCAN FOOD IS A FAVE

It’s been shown that they’ve been farmed since ancient times and have played a significant role in the culture of many countries. They were especially popular in ancient Rome, so much so that one of the most important noble families took their surname, “i Fabi,” from these pulses. Even traces have been found in Troy, Crete, and some say in ancient Greece, where eating them was even forbidden because the black stains on the pods were linked to death. However, their nutritional value has been rediscovered recently, as fava beans went from being a luxury for the wealthy to being used for common people and cattle. Over the years, many legends have surrounded these pulses, but the most interesting one that still circulates here is the legend of the “leap pod.” It’s said that on a leap year, the fava beans inside the pods grow backward. So, if you shell one, you’ll find the beans attached downward, not to the stem. It’s just a funny legend, but you know what they say, passing down myths and legends keeps a nation’s story alive. It can be a lot of fun spending a lazy Sunday afternoon shelling pods to see who finds the backward beans on a leap year!

baccelli-fava-broath-beans

Back in the day, those tender, freshly picked favas were a fantastic treat for a springtime picnic! In Tuscany, we love them raw, simply seasoned with a pinch of salt and drizzled with extra virgin olive oil, paired with our beloved Tuscan Pecorino DOP cheese. It’s the perfect snack to accompany a glass of Chianti wine.

We’re so fond of them that we even have a one-day festival called “la baccellata” in Certaldo Alto, held on April 25th this year. It helps the local church of San Tommaso e Prospero raise funds for the procession of Beata Giulia in September. On “baccellata” day, people come together to enjoy these delicious fresh pods with Pecorino Marzolino cheese, a Tuscan fresh Pecorino that hasn’t been seasoned, which beautifully blends with the favas, creating a unique delight for all your senses.

Another delightful way to enjoy your favas raw is to make a simple and quick, yet very nutritious pesto. All you need are 250g of fresh shelled fava beans, a clove of garlic, 80g of Pecorino cheese, a pinch of salt, and some fresh basil leaves if you like. Just blend everything together and then add a splash of Tuscan extra virgin olive oil to achieve a creamy texture. You can savor this delight on toasted bread (crostini), as a side dish for meat or fish, or make a generous portion of pasta: boil it until “al dente” and stir-fry everything for one minute, adding just a drop of the boiling water if needed. Feel free to get creative and add some pine nuts or almonds to the mixture, or simply sprinkle them on top of the dish, slightly toasted.

pesto-baccelii-favas-pecorino

Our last tip: when you’re picking up favas at the market, if you’re in Tuscany, just ask for baccelli. If you’re hoping to enjoy them raw, look for tender, firm pods with a velvety fuzz and small, thin-skinned beans inside. Otherwise, you’ll need to peel the skin off, which means boiling them for a few minutes.

I guess all that’s left to say is buona baccellata! Happy favas day!

Enjoy!